Crack near rear camber eccentric bolt
03-10-2018, 01:27 PM
#1
Crack near rear camber eccentric bolt
I have had the car for 4 years and track the heck out of it. I have had a ton of alignments and I think a couple times they had to get a pry bar in there to free a stuck eccentric. I always emphasize being careful and I think they always are, so I am not sure that anyone who has recently aligned the car did this or if it happened before I owned the car. I have had the car apart a lot and usually am real observant so I am surprised I just noticed this.
To me it looks like the result of a pry bar vs driving force, I tried to get an idea if it goes under the plate, I don’t think it does. It really looks to me like it is old, someone even put an epoxy on it at one point.
Any my thoughts if I should be concerned? To me it doesn’t look structural just the outside edge from a pry bar, but I can’t be totally sure.
03-10-2018, 02:47 PM
#2
The S2000 is as thin as f**k there I would get it reinforced & welded before tracking /driving the car for sure..
its had a right going over with a lever !! and stressed and bent.
Get it plated
its had a right going over with a lever !! and stressed and bent.
Get it plated
03-10-2018, 02:56 PM
#3
Would also add it would benefit from a better structure here, as the gusset that Spoon does for the mountings to top A arm that rip away from body.
03-10-2018, 03:08 PM
#4
Could better idea maybe get another subframe the adjuster looks way out also and accuracy for geo may have been an issue..
03-10-2018, 03:23 PM
#5
& the Horror !!
spent x hours hoping mine would not look like this after my diy bush install !!
get another shop to do your fine tune whom uses anti sieze grease ..........
spent x hours hoping mine would not look like this after my diy bush install !!
get another shop to do your fine tune whom uses anti sieze grease ..........
03-10-2018, 03:43 PM
#6
To be fair I am pretty sure I have tracked the piss out of it like that. I just can’t decide if there is actually any driving force right there. You have all the ball joints then bushings, to me it seems more like a pocket.
I am thinking I will likely weld it up, the control arm will need removed. I may wait till after the first couple events, I really don’t think it will fail. Dropping the subframe sucks balls, I actually did it last year, too bad I didn’t notice this issue!!
I am thinking I will likely weld it up, the control arm will need removed. I may wait till after the first couple events, I really don’t think it will fail. Dropping the subframe sucks balls, I actually did it last year, too bad I didn’t notice this issue!!
03-10-2018, 03:55 PM
#7
But lateral forces on this area will not help,it may not snap due to the thin gauge metal.
I was bending the area by hand holding the lca without the caster connected and thought of plating whithout a fracture like that.
If needed just get a little weld in situ,and spay with water to cool the area,it should hold
I was bending the area by hand holding the lca without the caster connected and thought of plating whithout a fracture like that.
If needed just get a little weld in situ,and spay with water to cool the area,it should hold
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03-10-2018, 10:58 PM
#8
I noticed this problem on my front subframe so I removed the adjuster brackets (drilled out the two spot welds) and had a local engineering shop machine
4 new ones out of a billet mild steel, no way can these bend out of shape now and only cost £100 for all 4.
4 new ones out of a billet mild steel, no way can these bend out of shape now and only cost £100 for all 4.
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Nickfromny
S2000 Racing and Competition
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