tot

I've had the car for three months and I didn't want my first post to be boring!

My car is a completely stock 2006 with 115k miles. I've had it three months and my driving has been commuting with 2 auto crosses and 30min worth of track sessions.

1. I first started noticing an issue with my clutch sticking. I looked around s2ki for some answers (thanks for all the great info!) and found the polishing your knob (on the clutch fork) tutorial.
I polished my knob and changed the oil while I was under there. There were no metal flakes in the oil. Afterwards, the clutch would occasionally stick, but not as bad. I thought it was an issue with my polishing skills or not enough grease.

2. A week later I started my car on a cold morning and it struggled to idle and then stalled. I checked s2ki and saw people claiming it was a change in the weather, maybe a clogged sensor, or the ECU learning how to deal with those changes. I got it to start and drove it to work and back home with it stalling 3 times along the way. I parked it in the garage and it hasn't moved since. I started going through the checklist to cross of the easy stuff.

3. I unplugged the battery to reset the ecu. The first start after resetting the ECU the car would warm up starting at 2k RPM and working its way down as it warmed up (normal). Once it warmed up it died. Second startup the car had an idle around 1k (normal), but pushing in the clutch would bog the engine down and after the engine is slightly revved it would dip below 1k and bog down.

4. I checked vacuum hoses for leaks and saw nothing. I felt silly doing the "MAP whack".

5. I checked the vtech solenoid and found a bit of metal shavings. I'm going to guess this is not normal even for a car with 115k miles.


6. I ordered a dial indicator to test for crank movement.

This video shows the base of the dial magnetically attached to the crank pulley and the indicator point on the block. I've already pried out the pulley with a flathead screw driver before the clip starts because when the engine is off the pulley doesn't return (when the engine is on it does return). I slowly press the clutch and you can see the pulley and dial move.


The service manual says the service limit is 0.018in. If I understand the dial correctly, my crank moved 0.073in. Not good.

Red is where I'm at and blue and where I should be. Is that correct?



My next plan of action is to drain the oil, remove the oil pan, and inspect the crank and block for damage. What should I look for? I'll update with photos next week.

Questions:
Is this something that just happens to S2000's or did I or the previous own mistreat the car? The oil levels were always maintained for the short 3months I've had it.
What's the best plan of action if the engine is shot? Rebuild or swap a used engine?
Does anyone have a ballpark for the cost to swap or rebuild?
How could I have prevented this?

tot

UPDATE
The verdict is in and it's a failed thrust washer.

I'm going to pull the engine in the next couple of weeks and I'll post more detailed pictures. The only question I have is if this is something that happens over time or sneaks up quick? I'm guessing the clutch sticking was the first sign there was some crank walk and when the washed completely failed that's when it started dying during idle.

afzan

Most likely caused by an upgraded clutch (pressure plate) and not bypassing the clutch interlock switch (ie starting the car with the clutch pressed)

Mexs2k

I have heard that you have to bypass the clutch interlock switch but never understood why. Can you please explain to me why. I don't see how that causes problems? Thank you

V3rtigo

Ifa, I don't see what bypassing the switch does. Unless there's some negative effect from the tiny bit of axial load created by having the clutch pressed on startup.

bgoetz

Theoretically the most wear on thrust washers occur on the initial clutch input during startup. No oil has circulated through the engine at that point. Not sure I totally agree on it being an issue though.

windhund116

Prolly much more force than you'd think. With force multiplication of levers and hydraulics. Crank isn't really designed for tons of lateral force. I idle the engine a bit before shutting off and release the clutch pedal ASAP, once started ---- kinda to ease my mind about oil lubrication and lateral force on the crank. I know, it's all psychological...

Car Analogy

Cold, thick oil, no oil pressure yet, clutch depressed, so pressure plate force is pressing against dry thrust washer.

Bypass the interlock switch, and you can start the car without pressing the clutch, therefore avoiding dry thrust washer starts.

windhund116

Just gotta watch out for being in first or reverse. Darn car can go pretty far, with the starter motor, alone.

Car Analogy

So a while back po owner installed ebay crap clutch went out. Would not disengage. To move the car around I would start it in gear.

I was surprised how slow the car moved and how long it took to start. Made me realize I'd have time to react to if ever tried to start in gear.