S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Crank Walk Adventures: Thrust Bearing Failure

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Old 02-05-2018, 05:01 PM
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What is the nominal range of lateral crankshaft play?

Thanks (again, prolly)!
Old 02-06-2018, 08:21 AM
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Yeah, I've got the OEM airbox which sounds like it will need to come out.
Old 02-28-2018, 03:05 PM
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I'm feeling pretty stupid right now and I'm hoping someone can help, either my car has .005 or .090 worth of crank movement. I like to think if it's .090 I would physically see the movement and my car would not be starting. I put the magnetic base on the crank pulley, tip of the measuring deivce on the block. Wedged the crank forward and snapped the first pic and then pushed the clutch in and took the second pic. In my mind the measurement decreased which means the crank pulley moved outward. Either that or the measurement went almost a full rotation around. Can anyone help me either understand why the crank moved out or if my engine is about to die.


Old 03-01-2018, 05:16 AM
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Have to watch the gauge or take a video to know which one it is or know which way the gauge turns when the rod is pushed in.
Old 03-01-2018, 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by V3rtigo
Have to watch the gauge or take a video to know which one it is or know which way the gauge turns when the rod is pushed in.
I confirmed last night something else must have caused the movement, maybe it shifted slightly when opening the door or who knows. The smaller round dial within the larger dial would have moved a lot more had the dial done an entire rotation, confirmed that the dial dropped back only .005in. Going to retest this weekend with someone already in the car and me watching the dial.
Old 03-16-2018, 10:52 AM
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Remeasured today, .0085 on my 07 at 103k. Phew!!
Old 03-16-2018, 11:36 AM
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glad I found this thread... picking up a digital indicator. My car is at 101k miles. I'd like to check if I have a problem before symptoms start manifesting themselves.
Old 04-25-2018, 05:51 PM
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2006 with 151k miles, 20k of which have been on an ACT PP, no clutch interlock bypass. Finally tested this and I keep getting .006-.007ish so seems I'm well within spec. I don't have any of the mentioned negative symptoms either. I'd assume at this mileage I'm probably good then eh?

Last edited by rbtz; 04-25-2018 at 05:54 PM.
Old 12-16-2018, 10:24 AM
  #159  
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With oil analysis showing slightly elevated lead i worried this was my issue! Bought a guage and thank goodness it was just fine.

40K miles on a 2002 engine and measured to 0.20mm well within the tolerance range. 0.40mm being service max.
Old 01-21-2023, 11:07 PM
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Default Ap1 00

Originally Posted by Billman250
Thrust bearing issues will not cause the clutch to stick to the floor.

Engine idling down or stalling during clutch pedal press is a sure sign.

Driver input plays a big role here as well:

-At no time should you be on the gas when pressure is on the clutch
​​​​​​-at no time should you be HOLDING the clutch pedal down during any driving situation. Any time you push the clutch pedal down, you should be releasing it in the same motion. I have seen drivers do this. It is not healthy for the thrust bearing, nor is it conducive to smooth operation of the car.
My 00 stock Ap1 is stalling during clutch pedal press (only when reducing speed or shifting slowly until revs drop to low and it stalls) - does this automatically means that I need a new engine? Could you please provide a potential roadmap to follow for ways to diagnose it or fix it? If I need a new engine, what do you recommend as replacement (e.g rebuild, used engine, kswap? I am basically trying to avoid being scam for a second time since I just bought the car like this without knowing- I am in the North Cal and everyone talks about you and LHT is there an equivalent trust worthy person or shop in this area? Anything that you can provide is greatly appreciated


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