S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Cylinder #2 rod bearing failure again :-(

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Old 07-23-2018, 02:26 PM
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So why can't a reputable shop rework a crank to the "beyond mirror" finish Billman spoke of?
Old 07-23-2018, 04:32 PM
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By “beyond”, I am referring to not only finish, but flatness, trueness, roundness. If the shop made any determinations or repairs that were deemed “close enough”, the bearing life will be short. These “close enough” situations can work in other engines, but always fail with the S2000.
Old 07-23-2018, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Billman250
By “beyond”, I am referring to not only finish, but flatness, trueness, roundness. If the shop made any determinations or repairs that were deemed “close enough”, the bearing life will be short. These “close enough” situations can work in other engines, but always fail with the S2000.
Billman, how is a consumer to know if the lathe and operator are capable of turning an S2000 crank to the trueness, needed for this car? Should he/she go to a known, good HP motorcycle engine specialist? Word of mouth?

Thanks!
Old 07-23-2018, 09:16 PM
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Maybe the only thing for these cranks is micro polishing in the <correct rotation>
Old 07-24-2018, 03:25 AM
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I searched for micro polishing regarding correct rotation and found this.
Very informative.
https://www.mahle-aftermarket.com/na...-polishing.jsp
Old 07-24-2018, 06:03 AM
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^^^ Good find
Old 07-26-2018, 04:32 PM
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I called the machine shop who sent my crank out to be worked on. Per the machine shop, my crank had a "nitride weld", then grind and polish to #2 journal. I shopped locally for a used crank yesterday and all of the recyclers don't separate the crank from the motor. So I'd need to buy a motor. No luck finding a new crank either. The machine shop who did my work, also does work for many of the Sacramento franchised dealerships. They stand by their work and well as who they sub'd the crank out to. I going to approach this issue as though we have the incorrect bearing size for #2 journal (the one that was worked on). I called a local Honda dealer and was told there are 7 sizes of rod bearings, going by color code. I'm not sure what bearing to start with and plasti-gauge to. I'm thinking start something smaller (undersized.....not sure if that exists) and go from there. Dealer was $36 for both halves, so I don't want to buy all 7 sizes. Anyone have a suggestion on how to approach this? Do we need to measure the journal with a micrometer and compare? I'm not a tech, just want to be fairly systematic and how we approach the issue. My preference is to keep the crank in the motor and not tear down. To restate an earlier post, we inspected journals 1,3 and 4......all surfaces looked great. I'm guessing here, but would damage more likely to occur on a bearing that was too tight of a fit or too loose? I'm thinking too tight, but I don't know. All con rod bearings installed on the rebuild were the same spec, from the same batch.
Old 07-26-2018, 05:45 PM
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I'd mic'ed the bearing surfaces, of your crank. See what are the variances. Go from there.

Good luck!
Old 07-26-2018, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by L8BRAKN
I called the machine shop who sent my crank out to be worked on. Per the machine shop, my crank had a "nitride weld", then grind and polish to #2 journal. I shopped locally for a used crank yesterday and all of the recyclers don't separate the crank from the motor. So I'd need to buy a motor. No luck finding a new crank either. The machine shop who did my work, also does work for many of the Sacramento franchised dealerships. They stand by their work and well as who they sub'd the crank out to. I going to approach this issue as though we have the incorrect bearing size for #2 journal (the one that was worked on). I called a local Honda dealer and was told there are 7 sizes of rod bearings, going by color code. I'm not sure what bearing to start with and plasti-gauge to. I'm thinking start something smaller (undersized.....not sure if that exists) and go from there. Dealer was $36 for both halves, so I don't want to buy all 7 sizes. Anyone have a suggestion on how to approach this? Do we need to measure the journal with a micrometer and compare? I'm not a tech, just want to be fairly systematic and how we approach the issue. My preference is to keep the crank in the motor and not tear down. To restate an earlier post, we inspected journals 1,3 and 4......all surfaces looked great. I'm guessing here, but would damage more likely to occur on a bearing that was too tight of a fit or too loose? I'm thinking too tight, but I don't know. All con rod bearings installed on the rebuild were the same spec, from the same batch.
I have multiple cranks at my shop currently both f20 and f22.. several are listed here on s2ki...,
Old 07-26-2018, 08:51 PM
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Default Clarification

Originally Posted by windhund116
I'd mic'ed the bearing surfaces, of your crank. See what are the variances. Go from there.

Good luck!
By “mic’d“, you mean micropolished? I really want the avoid another tear down and reassembly. Attached is the machine shop invoice.


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