Differential Failure - Advice
04 has 148k miles on it & on my way to work today it started vibrating from the back. Felt & sounded like I had something wrong with a wheel(there wasn't). As I drove it turned into a clunking noise from the rear that changed frequency based on how fast I was going. Over the last few miles to work the noise & vibration got worse & more apparent at low speed then it was initially. I'm fairly certain the diff is failing based on some research. I may have to get the car towed to a shop as I'm not sure if the car will make it somewhere driving. Looks like I could get a used diff, parts & labor for $1000 - $1500. Thing is, this is a rebuilt title S that I've had for 10 years. Tthe value of the car is probably not much more than $4k. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
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DIY, its not that difficult to swap a diff.
Make sure its not something really simple like loose lug nuts! |
Originally Posted by Car Analogy
(Post 24445856)
DIY, its not that difficult to swap a diff.
Make sure its not something really simple like loose lug nuts! I am considering DIY. First I need it diagnosed. |
let us know what you find out.
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:feint:
Embarrassingly enough, it was the lug nuts of the driver side rear. Pure facepalm moment if there ever was one. Thankfully I checked this before making arrangements to take it somewhere. Minimize the embarrassment to this forum. When I originally parked the car I figured it couldn't be a wheel bc it would have to be coming off the hub a bit to make that noise. Apparently, I was wrong. Thanks for the replies guys. & Car Analogy, thanks for the suggestion. Sorry for dismissing it. I'm an idiot. |
You might want to check the studs and nuts carefully to be sure they are not damaged.
Don't feel bad. I once looked at a noisy wheel for a friend. I told him it was fine. Next day his wheel fell off and he went down an embankment and put his tooth through his lip. Ugh. Talk about embarrassing. |
Originally Posted by project2k4
(Post 24445570)
Thing is, this is a rebuilt title S that I've had for 10 years. Tthe value of the car is probably not much more than $4k. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
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Originally Posted by rbtz
(Post 24447092)
Don't undervalue the car so much, depending on overall condition it's worth much more than 4k even with those miles and a rebuilt title.
I hear you. Don't get me wrong, I love the car & it definitely beats a car payment. I did put a brand new soft top on her last year. Problem is, there are some dents here & there, one that is substantial on the passenger door sill. Some of them have started to rust a bit. Not that it matters but these were from the previous owner who caused the title to be rebuilt. |
Originally Posted by rpg51
(Post 24446909)
You might want to check the studs and nuts carefully to be sure they are not damaged.
Don't feel bad. I once looked at a noisy wheel for a friend. I told him it was fine. Next day his wheel fell off and he went down an embankment and put his tooth through his lip. Ugh. Talk about embarrassing. |
The torque specification for the wheel lug nuts is 80 lbf-ft. What torque are you using.? Guessing doesn't count. :)
In olden days there was a "left hand" thread pattern for the lug nuts on the left side of the car to keep them from self-loosening from vibration and rotational forces. This practice ended 60 years ago on passenger cars but I believe many (some? all?) big trucks still use the "left on the left" threads on that side as do some trailers. For the rest of us it's "Righty Tighty." -- Chuck |
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