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Difficult to start once warm. Bad starter?

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Difficult to start once warm. Bad starter?

 
Old 11-22-2015, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Soviet View Post
Originally Posted by Slowcrash_101' timestamp='1448220615' post='23809782
I second the battery. Just because a battery holds 12.6v doesn't mean it's good, you need to do a load test. Even a cheap tester is better than just a straight voltage measurement because all you could be measuring is the surface charge.

Ask yourself this, does the car have hesitation at lower rpms when it's warmed up? If it does I can almost guarantee it's the battery.
What do you mean by hesitation?
As in you press the gas and acceleration is sluggish until rpms creep up a bit.

Can you measure resistance at your ground cable? Should be almost 0 ohms with the battery disconnected..
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Old 11-22-2015, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Slowcrash_101 View Post
Originally Posted by Soviet' timestamp='1448220791' post='23809786
[quote name='Slowcrash_101' timestamp='1448220615' post='23809782']
I second the battery. Just because a battery holds 12.6v doesn't mean it's good, you need to do a load test. Even a cheap tester is better than just a straight voltage measurement because all you could be measuring is the surface charge.

Ask yourself this, does the car have hesitation at lower rpms when it's warmed up? If it does I can almost guarantee it's the battery.
What do you mean by hesitation?
As in you press the gas and acceleration is sluggish until rpms creep up a bit.

Can you measure resistance at your ground cable? Should be almost 0 ohms with the battery disconnected..
[/quote]

I don't recall any hesitation. Everything feels a bit sluggish before 4k

I'm not sure how to measure resistance but I'll try and figure it out. When it comes to electrical stuff I'm a noob.
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Old 11-22-2015, 02:50 PM
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had the same issue on my car. After a bit it got worse and i would have to let the car cool off for 10 mins before it would start again.

Thought it may be the battery. Had my battery and alternator checked at a local shop, they were fine. Turned out to be my starter. Swapped a new one in and it starts strong all the time now.
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Old 11-22-2015, 04:23 PM
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Checking resistance is just a way of checking that the engine is grounded to the chassis. You can test this by connecting a jumper cable from the engine to the chassis somewhere and seeing if the problem goes away. Just make sure the connection points are bare metal with no paint or rust or anything.

You would probably be fine just checking the OEM ground and making sure the wire is tightly bolted to the chassis and cleaning the contact points with a wire brush or sandpaper.
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Old 11-22-2015, 05:42 PM
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Battery terminal connection are ok?

I would take a look at the starter connections.
It could be bad brushes on the starter.
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Old 12-02-2015, 09:47 PM
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After the holiday break I finally got back to this issue. Since I had a really big hunch that it was the starter I decided to try replacing the starter since I had one lying around from another swap.

I lightly cleaned and lubricated the starter I put in. When I finally got the old starter out I discovered that it was already a remanufactured unit.



This gave me some hope... Anyways I finally put the different OEM starter in. The car started up incredibly fast. Again feeling very hopeful. I went out for a short 15 minute drive, got the car real hot. After parking the car and trying to start it while hot it didn't have any issues.

Fast forward to today, I've been trying to re-start the car immediately after hot to see if the starter fixed the problem. Unfortunately I've been able to replicate the old symptoms....

So back to square one. I'm going to back and fully evaluate both of my car batteries. I may pick up an additional battery tester if it does anything beyond what a multimeter does? Any info on this would be helpful.

I just watched an informational video on the meaning of volts and amps so I already have a better understanding what you guys are talking about with regards to the electronics....

Originally Posted by Slowcrash_101 View Post
I second the battery. Just because a battery holds 12.6v doesn't mean it's good, you need to do a load test. Even a cheap tester is better than just a straight voltage measurement because all you could be measuring is the surface charge. To do a load test, hook up the load tester, and set it to half the cold cranking amps on the battery, and test for 15 seconds, do it at least twice. If it goes below 9.6v or doesn't hold at least 12.4 volts that battery is no good, or at least needs a good charge.Ask yourself this, does the car have hesitation at lower rpms when it's warmed up? If it does I can almost guarantee it's the battery.This car benefits GREATLY from a trickle charger, my completely stock wiring system draws ~.70mA constant with the key out, granted it's not bad, but not great either.
I did a quick test in my garage just now when the car had issues starting and it didn't drop below 10 on my multimeter but I'm limited by how fast the display updates. Also the battery is holding 12.68 volts when sitting. I may need to bring the car to my nearby autozone or pick up a tool with a min/max feature I'm guessing.

Here is what I'm working with.



Also it looks like my battery was produced in 2014. Which means it is pretty new?



Originally Posted by 2003AP1 View Post
Battery terminal connection are ok?I would take a look at the starter connections. It could be bad brushes on the starter.
Battery terminals look good. starter connections also looked clean :/
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Old 12-03-2015, 02:44 AM
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You could start to check the electrical connections between the battery and the starter.
Switch the multimeter to ohms (omega symbol) and then cross both probes together to check the "zero" you should see 0.0 or 0.1ohm.
Then you put one probe on the battery negative and the other somewhere on the engine block, you can try multiple places.
You might see a ~0.1ohm higher value but it shouldn't be much more.
After that you put one probe on the positive terminal and the other probe on starter motor terminal, you should see a similar low resistance value here as well.
Also while you are doing these measurements it's a good thing to pull and wiggle a bit on cables and connections to see if there is a change in resistance.
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Old 12-03-2015, 03:59 AM
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Do a voltage drop test when it's warm. Start at the battery and work you way towards the starter and the grounds.
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Old 12-03-2015, 04:07 AM
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Youtube has everything nowadays.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=U0OtjG4bwJg
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Old 12-03-2015, 04:46 AM
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Yes if you could check the voltage drop instead that is probably a lot more accurate than the resistance measuring I was explaining.
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