Difficult to start once warm. Bad starter?
12-07-2015, 12:40 PM
#41
I don't understand why there's ~10+ responses in this thread regarding parasitic draw. It would be worse on a cold start than a warm start because it would have had more time for the parasitic draw to deplete the battery.......... Plus, a cold motor takes more juice to crank over anyways
12-07-2015, 03:51 PM
#42
I don't understand why there's ~10+ responses in this thread regarding parasitic draw. It would be worse on a cold start than a warm start because it would have had more time for the parasitic draw to deplete the battery.......... Plus, a cold motor takes more juice to crank over anyways
No, it was harder to start when hot vs cold = high resistance.
12-07-2015, 07:42 PM
#43
Posted 04 December 2015 - 07:11 AM
Have you checked the starter relay? Checking resistance in a powered circuit isn't going to tell you much, I agree with above, a voltage drop will tell you if you have excessive resistance, even better would be a starter draw test. The starter should be pulling between 130-160 amps, any more than that and you can start suspecting the starter, or an electrical connection to it. I'd start with the relay, put the positive probe before and the negative after the relay. Set it on volts, the relay should read less than a volt when cranking.
Have you checked the starter relay? Checking resistance in a powered circuit isn't going to tell you much, I agree with above, a voltage drop will tell you if you have excessive resistance, even better would be a starter draw test. The starter should be pulling between 130-160 amps, any more than that and you can start suspecting the starter, or an electrical connection to it. I'd start with the relay, put the positive probe before and the negative after the relay. Set it on volts, the relay should read less than a volt when cranking.
12-07-2015, 09:02 PM
#44
Thread Starter
Posted 04 December 2015 - 07:11 AM
Have you checked the starter relay? Checking resistance in a powered circuit isn't going to tell you much, I agree with above, a voltage drop will tell you if you have excessive resistance, even better would be a starter draw test. The starter should be pulling between 130-160 amps, any more than that and you can start suspecting the starter, or an electrical connection to it. I'd start with the relay, put the positive probe before and the negative after the relay. Set it on volts, the relay should read less than a volt when cranking.
Have you checked the starter relay? Checking resistance in a powered circuit isn't going to tell you much, I agree with above, a voltage drop will tell you if you have excessive resistance, even better would be a starter draw test. The starter should be pulling between 130-160 amps, any more than that and you can start suspecting the starter, or an electrical connection to it. I'd start with the relay, put the positive probe before and the negative after the relay. Set it on volts, the relay should read less than a volt when cranking.
12-08-2015, 04:20 AM
#45
Originally Posted by jkelley' timestamp='1449524442' post='23822123
I don't understand why there's ~10+ responses in this thread regarding parasitic draw. It would be worse on a cold start than a warm start because it would have had more time for the parasitic draw to deplete the battery.......... Plus, a cold motor takes more juice to crank over anyways
No, it was harder to start when hot vs cold = high resistance.
05-21-2019, 10:07 PM
#47
Registered User
05-22-2019, 04:50 AM
#48
12-20-2020, 03:04 PM
#49
Thread Starter
Back again to spice things up yet again!
Fast forward to April of 2020. My F20C has been swapped with an F22C and once again I have an old battery (unrelated to the swap) and an original starter. Once again, I have a hot starting issue!
In April I replaced my old battery with a new unit from Costco. This resulted in a minor improvement in the hot starting issues but the issue persisted.
Today, I just replaced the original starter with a remanufactured Denso unit and the hot start issue is gone once again.
So my theory is that the starter is the root cause, but the issue is exacerbated by a weak battery.
Fast forward to April of 2020. My F20C has been swapped with an F22C and once again I have an old battery (unrelated to the swap) and an original starter. Once again, I have a hot starting issue!
In April I replaced my old battery with a new unit from Costco. This resulted in a minor improvement in the hot starting issues but the issue persisted.
Today, I just replaced the original starter with a remanufactured Denso unit and the hot start issue is gone once again.
So my theory is that the starter is the root cause, but the issue is exacerbated by a weak battery.
The following 2 users liked this post by Soviet:
Slowcrash_101 (12-21-2020),
windhund116 (12-20-2020)