DIY: Engine Removal / Rebuild**updated 9/29/2012**
 

Well S2KI, Im sure some of you had seen my prior post of looking for DIY on Engine Removal but i didnt have any helpful responses or answers so i have been lurking and searching for past 3 weeks. I have finally found what i needed and im gonna share this process with the board and hope that this helps anyone else that was needing a walkthrough or assistance.

--any feedback would be great, also let me know if you need a picture of a specific part so i can definitely make it a thorough process with pics to better help--

*This will be updated as I go process*

First note to start off on is why am i needing to do this? Well seeing how as my s2000 has produced a rod knock is why.

---Key to all of this walkthrough is the Repair Manual that can be viewed by this link--->> http://downloads.hon...ce%20Manual.zip

Here is the car :
Attachment 101660

1. First Step was to get car situated in garage, seeing how i dont have a huge shop or anything to do this in. I need to make use of the space I have, thus meant putting car all the way up against back wall to allow for hood clearance of garage opener motor

Attachment 101661

2. Now you will need a 19mm socket/ and or your lugnut key to loosen lug nuts, then its time to get the car up in the air

Attachment 101662
http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/o...0S2000/088.jpg

3. Remove Lug nuts and Take Wheels off -

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4. Check your tires for any odd wearing or defects (not a must, but i like to do this step)-

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5. Once removed you should have something like this -

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7. Now that your car is wheel/tireless you should be left with this -

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8. Here is the Engine bay before removing anything -

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9. Now i know most of us have cold air intakes or aftermarket intake of some sort so we all know how to remove these, I found it the easiest place to start -

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10. The KEY point in any project or job is to stay organized, so try to keep as organized as possible. I find that zip lock baggies to hold bolts and a marker is the best way of going about things so that way you dont loose a bolt or forget.

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11. So after intake removed engine bay should look something like this-

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12. Now were gonna get most that we can up top finished first, so next up is to remove serpentine belt. Here is how it looks before removing.-

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13. Alright now break out your 14mm socket and place it on tensioner as so-

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14. Now act as if your loosening the bolt and it will release the tension on belt, then carefully slide off belt..-

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15. Now that its removed were gonna disconnect the battery before going any further (yes extension is a little long but did job) -

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16. Alright so no more power to car, now its time to focus on alternator, but first here is a look at it -

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17. We will be using a 14mm socket for the alternator, here is top bolt -

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18. Here is bottom bolt-

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19. Once alternator is all unbolted, should look like this -

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20. Then wiggle it up and out of bottom bracket, this can be a pain in the butt sometimes-

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21. On back side of alternator there is going to be a green plug we need to unplug, and a 12mm nut holding power wire on to alternator, here is a picture (little hard to see)

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22. Take a long flathead screwdriver and push the rubber boot off the 12mm nut we need to remove-

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23. Take your 12mm socket and ratchet now and remove 12mm nut holding power wire on to alternator

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http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/o...0S2000/042.jpg

24. Unplug the green plug from back of alternator -

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25. Now lift alternator out-

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26. Will look like this now without alternator-

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27. Throttle cable removal is next, here is a picture of it before removed-

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28. Break out your 12mm wrench, and loosen nuts. Be careful because the throttle bracket bends easy-

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29. Once loosened up, now slide cable out and off -

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30. Lay cable out of your way-

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31. Making progress now on our list, next up is the a/c compressor this is shows the bolts and removing them, they are 14mm-

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32. Bolts all loosened up on top-

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33. Now for bottom bolts-

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34. Unplug sensor for a/c compressor -

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35. Back up top now, sorry for blurry pic, next we are gonna remove black heat shield on passenger side

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36. This pic showing the 3 bolts (10mm) along bottom of heat shield-

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37. Here is the big pain in the butt bolt (10mm) in back behind the motor for heat shield

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38. Heat shield removed -

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39. Pic of bay with heatshield gone -

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40. Time to remove exhaust heat shield, which includes a total of 5 12mm bolts-

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41. And removed -

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Looks great so far. I'm sure this will be very helpful to some people.

Definitely appreciated it!

this is awesome

Keep up the great work! I will definitely need this in the future :thumbup:

amazing!!! need more input :)

As you haven't gotten to the part that really tripped me up. TOP Tranny bolts. After you drop the sub frame 3". Undo the tranny support bracket entirely. Jack the tranny up so it presses up against the top of the tunnel. Now you need LONG handled closed end wrench. You can reach the top Passenger and top Center bolts FROM THE engine bay(between firewall and engine). I think the drivers side top one is to far down to each from the top. Tilt the engine back by tipping the tranny back down. To get that top drivers side I needed an impact socket(short) with a swivel attachment and about an 18" extension. This is the one that the tranny wires are attached to.

I think the engine lifting /re-install would have gone better if I loosened the bottom engine mount bolts so that they could tilt around if needed. When pulling the engine I did some crazy stuff trying to hoist it. I think 2 slings 1 back and 1 front going completely around the engine.(intake under to exhaust) This does 2 things. 1. Keeps it stable as it's threaded between the intake runners. 2. Should keep the attachment points to the hoist very close to the engine minimizing the total height of the hoist when pulling engine.

I zip tied the AC to the car with enough play to wiggle as the engine comes out of the car. Use a vice grip to clamp off the gas line. Take the main engine harness out as you pull the engine out and feed it back in as you re-install. 2 people here is very helpful.

This worked for me and is only a couple suggestions which I never saw in the other engine removal threads.

Nice write up, deff will help few guys on here!

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2

subscribed

thanks :)

Subbin' for the great work!

what happened? :confused:

lol i was wondering the same thing. maybe he ran into some trouble. :shrug:

Or he just said phuck this DIY nonsense it's slowing me down.... :rofl:

17 pictures devoted to removing the alternator :)

:D

Also notice he was using a TORQUE wrench to loosen the Serpentine Belt Tensioner... :egads: lol

I think that he ran out of film or maybe he is just waiting to take that last picture before getting them developed. :vintage:

Great Write Up..

Tearing mine apart now. Think i spun a bearing. Not sure why as oil level was full. The engine says Knock, knock, knock, knock. :feint:

is this the only engine rebuild thread??

agh, I got excited for finding this! Sorry to revive this guys, but does anyone know of a thorough DIY rebuild thread/video? Had an incident yesterday and I'm pretty sure it's a rod knock/spun bearing. lookin' to get everything I need and sorted out soon since the S is my daily. :crycry:

^ I would love to find this as well.

Can a mod just lock/delete this? Clearly the thread is of no use and it keeps getting bumped for no real good reason. :rolleyes:

Jordan...in your honest opinion....how much effort would it take to successfully do an engine build DIY to a point that anyone could use it, and build and an engine that can safely go the amount of miles that a brand new one can?

I personally feel it is impossible. It's like asking for a DIY to fix my back problems. It takes many years of experience and a lot of mechanical reasoning. This is why I think so many rebuilt engines fail, because there is just so much to attend to and many steps get skipped because they are simply not written. They are learned.

I think the idea looked good when the OP started, but he soon realized the intensity of it all. If it took that many pics and steps to convey what I consider 3 minutes worth of work, I couldn't imagine what the read-through would be on cross-hatching the cylinders, setting and ADJUSTING the bearing clearances to .0015 or phasing the rings.

When people build engines, they put ACL bearings in and call it good.

This is not engine building this is cutting corners.

.0023 is unacceptable, right? :)

I couldn't agree more.

Engine building is not as simple as following the steps in a book. It takes years as you said, to be able to properly cover all the bases and ensure you end up with a reliable product in the end.

SIMPLY PUT- IF YOU NEED A DIY TO REBUILD THIS ENGINE, YOU SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTING TO REBUILD THIS ENGINE.

Oh and ACL bearings for this motor are a joke.... Honda has one of the most impressive and easy systems put in place to properly do bearings for this motor, why others choose to cheap out and go ACL is beyond me... :ponder:

/thread :LOL:

amen.