DIY: T1R 70R Sparrow exhaust system installation
 

Hello fellow do it yourselfers, the following guide will walk you through my install of a shiny new T1R 70R Sparrow exhaust system. This is my first write up so any suggestions will be appreciated. Because this product does not come with any instructions i'll show you how i went about it, although I suggest you have a basic knowledge of working on cars before attempting this DIY.

Firstly the tools you will need for this job are as follows.

A decent metric ratchet set including:
14mm attachment
10mm attachment
ratched extention (recommended but not required)
14mm wrench
a can of Liquid Wrench, PB, WD-40 or a Silicon spray lubricant if you prefer.
A prying tool, (long screw driver, even a long wrench, or 18" wooden dowel to protect from scratching the under carriage)
5/32" alan wrench (for removing silencers)
a tarp or something to lay on, the tarp makes it easy to wiggle back and forth though.

The whole project from taking off the stock exhaust system to putting this one on took me a leisurely 6-7 hours by myself. If you have a partner this will go much quicker and easier! Also note that I did not install the test pipe that was included. If you wish to, before step one, remove the catalytic convertor and install the test pipe.

I'm starting from the point of having the stock system already removed since there is already a great write up provided by Legal Bill in the DIY section. So lets get started.

These are the goodies included in the box, (3) gaskets, (7) - 14mm nuts, (7) 14mm bolts
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...01629Small.jpg

Here is what your T1R system will look like all laid out, the numbers reflect the order we'll install the respective pieces. (if installing test pipe, install that first)
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...01618Small.jpg

some side shot action
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...01620Small.jpg

Now before you start removing all the bubble wrap if you haven't already, I recommend leaving it on the exhaust canisters and exhaust tips until you have secured the pieces to the car. this will help prevent dents and scratches if you happen to drop a piece during installation. You can go ahead and remove all the wrap from the unfinished pipe sections, flange ends, and the hangers though.

So from under the car first take the provided 3 hole gasket and place it on the end of the cat. it will only fit one way. (Note the first rubber hanger at the top left of the picture.)
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...01633Small.jpg

Next we'll be installing the following piece, the long pipe end connects to the cat. This section has one hook that will connect from right to left on the rubber hanger, the rest of the hooks/hangers install front to back. At this point you'll want to lubricate that rubber exhaust hanger in the previous pic w/ liquid wrench.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...01632Small.jpg

First rest the long end of the pipe on the bolts of the cat, this way you'll have more leverage while you connect the exhaust hook at the other end of the pipe.

With that end supported, lift the canister end with one hand and guide the hook into the rubber hanger with your other hand. if you need both hands to get the hook secured you can try resting the canister end on your knee\leg while you work the rubber hanger. This is where your prying tool may come in handy, you can use it to push the rubber hanger onto the hook by pressing one end against the car for leverage. Once you have the hook secured attach the three nuts to the bolts on the cat and torque them down. (sorry i don't have the torque specs)
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...01634Small.jpg

Next we'll attach the dual exhaust canisters leaving the small middle pipe for last. this allows you space to move the exhaust canisters back and forth to get them attached to the four rubber hangers. The numbers represent the order I attached the hooks to their respective rubber hangers. Make sure to lubricate all four rubber hangers. Also note I have removed the two rear rubber hangers from under the car and attached them to the rear hooks prior to making the first connection. If installing by yourself i recommend getting a cooler (as pictured below) or something of equal height to rest one side of the exhaust on while you lift the other side into place. Otherwise your helper can hold up the opposite side. Don't forget your prying tool, this part is tricky! use plenty of lube :D

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...01638Small.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...01639Small.jpg


With all four hooks secured it should look like this. You can remove all that wrap now though :)
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...01641Small.jpg


Now to the last piece, of the provided parts you will need those (2) 2-hole gaskets, (4) 14mm nuts, and (4) 14mm bolts.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...01643Small.jpg

Getting this last piece in place was a pain in my @$$holes. Situate yourself under the car with the bolts, nuts, & gaskets close by and ready to grab. Hold the pipe in place with one hand and with the other place a bolt through the rear right flange hole with the 14mm end of the bolt facing the front of the car. Next take one of the gaskets and slip it between the dual canister exhaust flange and the middle pipe. Try and clamp that gasket in place with the hand that's holding that end of the pipe up. Now take a second bolt and place it through the front right flange hole. Quickly grab the third bolt and place it through the front left flange hole. At this point the pipe should be somewhat supported by the bolts.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...01645Small.jpg

Take 2 of the 14mm nuts and secure them to the dual canister flange bolts with your 14mm ratched on one side and your 14mm wrench on the other side. You'll have to swap the ratch and wrench roles on the right side of the flange.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...01646Small.jpg

Once those bolts are secured remove the rear right bolt that we first put in, slip the second gasket in between the flanges and repeat the last step. (2 nuts, 2 bolts). Torque your nuts and bolts down and go over each flange connection to make sure they are air tight.

Now you'll want to remove any plastic protective film or bubble wrap that you may not have previously removed. There is plastic film on each of the three T1R logo plates and on the exhaust tips. Make sure you remove the alan wrench nuts that secure the silencers so you may remove the plastic film underneath the nuts. You don't want that film to melt to your exhaust.

You may now start the car and listen for air leaks at the flange connections. Be careful not to touch the exhaust with your head or hands. ;)

During my test I didn't hear any leaks, but i did notice moisture drips from each flange connection. Turn off the car and torque the bolts accordingly. If no air or moisture leaks :thumbup:

Lastly reinstall your rear support bar, attach wheels, lower your ride and admire all your hard work & new exhaust! :hello:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...01647Small.jpg


(If you're experiencing a rattle, see my post below for a solution)

Here is a picture of the test pipe & CEL fix that I'll install in the future.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...01631Small.jpg


My initial impression of this system is "Wow that's still f'n loud!". I'm coming from the T1R 70mm single w/ test pipe. When the silencers are out on the sparrow it sounds just a little less loud than my 70mm single. Although the single had the test pipe on and the Sparrow is running at catback. When I have the silencers in, the sound is almost comparable to stock, a little deeper though.

Video/Sound clips

here's a short clip with the silencers in on the freeway (cat is on)

Freeway clip, silencers in.

Another clip and i'm sure it's the one everyone wants to hear.

Test Pipe on, silencers out, vtec mania

More clips to come, including my vtec tunnel run :LOL:

you can check out the other two tunnel clips from my youtube profile. -Spence

-----------------------------------------

Finally, for those who'd like to know. Here is my dyno read out from blacktrax performance. the dark bottom line was my base line, the mods included in that run are

the T1R 70R sparrow exhaust, AEM CAI, and my comptech LW flywheel.

the higher grey line is with all the above and a tuned AFC Neo.

so i hear AP1's usually put down around 190 WHP stock. so if you have just a CAI and this exhaust i'd imagine you gain around 8 WHP. Although i never did a stock baseline so i couldn't tell you the true gains of the exhaust.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...2407Medium.jpg

Very nice write up! Thanks! Enjoy your exhaust!!! I maybe joining the 70R Sparrow exhaust crew sometimes later ;)

Great thread! I love how there are so many DIY threads in UTH as of late :)

How significant was the power loss coming from a 70mm single to a 70mm dual?

noticable in the torque aspect. the single made a lot more torque, i notice a small increase in power in the mid-range RPMs as well as at WOT. but that rattle is kill'n it right now at WOT, so once i find out what's causing it I can better report the performance. My T1R single had an occasional rattle which was caused by the pipe resting close to the rear cross beam that attaches underneath. that is not the case with the sparrow however. hmmm anyone with a 70R sparrow have this problem?

Nope not me. BTW nice writeup and take those silencers out!!!!!!!!

So i found the source of the rattle, it was caused by the resonator's proximity to part of the frame. Perhaps installing the test pipe (as the system is intended) will move the resonator closer to the front of the car and away from the frame by just enough. eitherway i just cut off a small piece of the frame with a dremel tool. it's a piece maybe the size of half a dime. see below.

Before
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...01657Small.jpg

After
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...01661Small.jpg

I'm sure you could also attach some heat shielding tape to the edge of the frame there which might kill the rattle, but this way I'm sure it won't come back :D

^^^ thanks for that fix. it scared the shi!t outa me when i first heard it.

[QUOTE=Aze85,Apr 17 2007, 09:45 PM] ^^^ thanks for that fix.

Added to UTH DIY thread

Link to the video of the test pipe installed & no silencers added to the bottom of original post. enjoy!

Excelent Review!

hey do you have any pics of the silencers installed?

It's very interesting that you guys had the rattle against the frame. I had the same thing happen a while ago. In my case, tolerances were a bit different (as they can be) and filing away a bit of the frame wasn't enough. As the exhaust heated up, it expanded and started rattling again, against the cross member. After much tinkering and communication with the vendor, they agreed to send me a new resonator section with an inch taken out of the pipe. I have plenty of clearance now.

This seems to be a a design flaw in the 70R Sparrow. It might be worth letting the appropriate people know.

[QUOTE=Tom Jr,May 13 2007, 07:50 PM] It's very interesting that you guys had the rattle against the frame.

who did you buy it from?

I got it from AJ racing. Very nice people to do business with and very willing to work with me on this issue.

hey...2 questions...did putting the test pipe fix the rattling problem? and is it me or there is no drone in taht video wiht ur TP on? maybe cuz ur high rpms but even when its deaccelerating the drone isnt there compared to reg videos wthout a TP....thanks!

I already replied, but for those that read this topic in the future. there is droning with the TP on but with loud deep bass. the bass exhaust sound doesn't record well with my little camera, but it's there trust me.

on another note now that i'd have the exhaust on for a while, the droning has lessened when the silencers are out, although it's still loud. I don't like to have the top up with the silencers out, the reverb in the cabin is to much.

also about the TP fixing the rattling, i had already cut the frame before installing the TP, so i cannot comment.

:stupid: the drone is a real deep bass
top up driving, the droning is pretty intense.
the tp does not fix the rattle. the rattle is caused by the resonator hitting the car. you have to cut part of the car where it is touching. i just did it and the rattling is gone.

i have yet to run it with the silencers.

dyno readout added to the bottom of first post

I'm thinking about doing this but I don't have any pyramid stands, I only have one jack stand and I really want to install my exhaust myself. For one thing I'm not sure how much I would be charged if I was to have someone install it for me (does anyone know?) and second I kinda wanna do it since it seems easy enough I would like the experience. What do you guys think? is it doable? Is there anything else I need to consider before I purchase a Q300? Will I need AP1 hangers or does the AP2 hanger work fine?

I have three questions about this system, does it come with a test pipe? Do you need headers to run this system? Where can I buy this system? thanks!

Thanks for the write up, my exhaust should be coming in tomorrow :D

Hey I have a 2001 S2000 I like the sound of your exhaust sound. I was going to get the Borla just the one you have sounds better. Do you know where I could get the system that you have & how much was everything you had if you don't mind me asking?