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Engine Build with Nippon Racing Pistons

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Engine Build with Nippon Racing Pistons

 
Old 02-19-2019, 02:21 AM
  #11  
 
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Ι guess the Xfold price tag! OEM 87.25mm pistons are really expensive. Very nice build fatjoe! I am following with a similar build (87.25mm nippon, FRM hone) but with a stroker crank to push the limits of the pistons and honing job. Let alone things are vastly different in Europe and we had a hard time locating a machine shop perform the hone. I will make a new thread sorry so we have these in parallel. Good luck!
if you can find a oem + .25 piston source please share
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Old 02-19-2019, 04:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Troystaten View Post
Looks like you did it right, any reason to use aftermarket pistons instead of Honda? Not a criticism just wondering. Thanks for showing us.
The main reason is availability. These pistons are very hard to find and I wanna see how these ones hold up long term.
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Old 02-19-2019, 04:18 AM
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
One question: why you installed the pistons dry? Was this a suggestion from InlinePro? Was it because of the extra coating?
The Quickseat acts as a lubricant. The pistons went in dry, but not lubricant-free. The quickseat aids in ring break-in. I chose to use Quickseat instead of engine oil as the repair manual suggests.
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Old 02-19-2019, 05:14 AM
  #14  
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Tight running motors make me nervous
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Old 02-19-2019, 10:06 AM
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Yea, and when I first heard this "build it tight" thing from Line2Line I was scared too. It took some willpower to let it ride with zero clearance lol.

It has been 100 miles of hard driving and redlining and the engine is smooth so far. There are spots in the RPM range where the engine stumbles a bit, but the more I drive it the better it gets. Will have a dyno test done soon.
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Old 02-19-2019, 10:25 AM
  #16  
 
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Originally Posted by fatjoe10 View Post
Yea, and when I first heard this "build it tight" thing from Line2Line I was scared too. It took some willpower to let it ride with zero clearance lol.

It has been 100 miles of hard driving and redlining and the engine is smooth so far. There are spots in the RPM range where the engine stumbles a bit, but the more I drive it the better it gets. Will have a dyno test done soon.
I would do an oil change if it's been 100 miles.
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Old 02-20-2019, 04:27 AM
  #17  
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Ok fellow engine builders, I have an update.

Slow's suggestion made sense, so I changed the oil. Refilled with 5w-30. The original plan was to change it at 500 miles.

I have 1% leakdown in all cylinders except for #3, which sits at 14%. I hear air coming thru the crankcase so obviously it is ring related. No symptoms of this in engine operation. Thoughts?

Forgot to add: Inspected the cylinder walls with a boroscope and all are totally perfect with no scoring and clearly visible crosshatch.
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Old 02-20-2019, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by fatjoe10 View Post
Ok fellow engine builders, I have an update.

Slow's suggestion made sense, so I changed the oil. Refilled with 5w-30. The original plan was to change it at 500 miles.

I have 1% leakdown in all cylinders except for #3, which sits at 14%. I hear air coming thru the crankcase so obviously it is ring related. No symptoms of this in engine operation. Thoughts?

Forgot to add: Inspected the cylinder walls with a boroscope and all are totally perfect with no scoring and clearly visible crosshatch.
Hot or cold?

when you gapped all your rings you de-burred them?

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Old 02-20-2019, 08:13 AM
  #19  
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This was when cold.

Rings were installed with the pre-set gap and were not modified.
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Old 02-20-2019, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by fatjoe10 View Post
This was when cold.

Rings were installed with the pre-set gap and were not modified.
pre-set, as in inlinepro gapped them for you?
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