I am pretty sure not a single person on this forum will suggest using any additional snake oil additives on our engines
As you already mentioned, do a compression test (leak down test will tell you more though but requires more equipment) and if you want to be sure the internals are fine you can further invest in an oil analysis.
In short, make sure your valve cover is properly sealed and get a new PCV valve - as the spring might wear out(?) - it's only a few bucks and done in 5min.
My MY2004 F20C (110kkm) is at about 1L every 2300km right now.
I already bought all the necessary gaskets but so far just replaced the oil filler gasket and dipstick o-rings, once its winter hibernation is over I can report back on any improvements.
On a side note, is it necessary to do a full-on oil change even though the full 5L have basically been replaced by the time a change is due?
As long as the base number (BN) doesn't go down, which it shouldn't since there is fresh oil added regularly and dirty oil is consumed, it should be good to go...
I am pretty sure not a single person on this forum will suggest using any additional snake oil additives on our engines
As you already mentioned, do a compression test (leak down test will tell you more though but requires more equipment) and if you want to be sure the internals are fine you can invest in an oil analysis.
In short, make sure your valve cover is properly sealed and get a new PCV valve - as the spring might wear out(?) - it's only a few bucks and done in 5min.
My MY2004 F20C (110kkm) is at about 1L every 2300km right now.
I already bought all the necessary gaskets but so far just replaced the oil filler gasket and dipstick o-rings, once its winter hibernation is over I can report back on any improvements.
On a side note, is it necessary to do a full-on oil change even though the full 5L have basically been replaced by the time a change is due?
As long as the base number (BN) doesn't go down, which it shouldn't since there is fresh oil added regularly and dirty oil is consumed, it should be good to go...
I change the oil and filter of course, every 7500 kms. or a single year.
I have got good results for other tasks using Metal Lube on the engine oil as well as inyector cleaning bottles. Are those bad?
I am pretty sure not a single person on this forum will suggest using any additional snake oil additives on our engines
As you already mentioned, do a compression test (leak down test will tell you more though but requires more equipment) and if you want to be sure the internals are fine you can further invest in an oil analysis.
In short, make sure your valve cover is properly sealed and get a new PCV valve - as the spring might wear out(?) - it's only a few bucks and done in 5min.
My MY2004 F20C (110kkm) is at about 1L every 2300km right now.
I already bought all the necessary gaskets but so far just replaced the oil filler gasket and dipstick o-rings, once its winter hibernation is over I can report back on any improvements.
On a side note, is it necessary to do a full-on oil change even though the full 5L have basically been replaced by the time a change is due?
As long as the base number (BN) doesn't go down, which it shouldn't since there is fresh oil added regularly and dirty oil is consumed, it should be good to go...
Adding more oil doesn't take out the blowby you accumulated in an OCI worth of driving. Even if your TBN is ok, you still have metal particulates in your oil, which keep getting caught by the filter until they can't.
I'm going to add to this, While I minimized oil consumption as notated above. It has been even further minimized. I switched from an 00-03 Valve cover to an 04-05 AP2 valve cover - but using the TSX PCV
I'm going to add to this, While I minimized oil consumption as notated above. It has been even further minimized. I switched from an 00-03 Valve cover to an 04-05 AP2 valve cover - but using the TSX PCV
-oil cap gasket
-pcv valve
-dipstick orings
? Thanks and happy new year
Check for weeping oil leaks
replace low pressure gaskets where air can escape
TDC Sensors O-Ring
Oil Filler Gasket
Oil Dip Stick(cant order orings separate)
TCT Gasket & Peep Hole Washer
Cam Idler Pulley O-Ring
Valve Cover Gasket
Spark Tube Seals
Valve Cover Bolt Grommets
PCV Grommet and PCV, or Switch to an 04-05 Valve cover if you have an 00-03 AP1, and utilize Acura TSX PCV, Acura Part #17130-RBB-A01
I've no idea why the PCV for an Acura whould be better than the Honda part. Regardless changing the PCV valve is a 3 minute job and has been known to reduce oil consumption. I just did it a month or so ago as preventive maintenance.