pizzai69

Hi,

The secondary shaft bearing noise is quite welle known here. I have bought the bearings and seals from Honda to replace mine.

But reading the ESM manual, I have a big doubt: do I need to check the shaft axial free play and maybe replacement the adjustment shim after replacing my bearings ??

The concerned shim is part n°8 in the picture below:

It exists in many sizes, calibrated every 0.03mm if I understood well !

pizzai69

I changed the 3 bearings of the secondary shaft yesterday night.
The job was interesting and confortable to do with a press and good tools of a friend.

Here is the worn one that made noise:



Now let's come back to the subject of this thread.
I followed this instruction for the shaft preload:



Before replacing the bearings, the shaft needed betwen 1.9Nm (14 ft.lb) to 2.4Nm (17,7 ft.lb) to be turned: that was right in the spec.
The shim actually in place is 1,22mm thick (0,048 in): it must be a 1,23mm one that just used a little. (nothing is written on it)

After replacing the bearings, and re-installing the same shim, the shaft needs about 5Nm (3,7 ft.lb) to be turned: that is OUT of the spec.

=> I have to change the shim for a thinner one.

My questions are:

• Has anybody already done that ? Reading the bearing replacement DIYs threads, I saw nobody talking about that point...
• Is there a way to know/estimate which shim thickness I should buy to get the correct rotation torque ? I guees it is note possible to calculate it, but maybe someone can estimate that "by experience" ?? At this moment, I suppose I will try the 1,17 mm (0,0461 in) one, but this is just choosen at random... and each shim is about $13 hear at Honda France, so I would like to avoid buying 10 of them !

Thanks for your help.

LagunaPearlAP2

Good job changing out that bearing! My bearing looked very similar. I believe I reused my old shim.. to be honest I don't remember. The fact that I did this the winter before last and the noise has not returned means I must have done something right tho

Mr.Matchbox

You could by cheap DIN 998 shims?

These are deisgned for the same purpose, made from hardened steel and are avilabel in 0,1 mm steps, cheap.

You could buy some, they dont have to fit exactly the diameter. You could test with them until you have figured out wich thickness give you the desired preload and then buy the correct Honda shim.

A ball bearing dealer should carry theses shims.

https://www.wegertseder.com/DIN-988-Pa%C3%9Fscheiben

https://www.reidl.de/din-988-passsch...k-passscheiben

https://www.norelem.de/de/de/Produkt...n-DIN-988.html

pizzai69

This is a very good idea, the kind of advice I was looking for. I didn't know the existence of those pieces, I will look at it better tomorrow.
Thanks.

pizzai69

I finally bought 4 Honda shims, and one of them gave me a good result



6,27kg at 40mm of the axle is equal to 2,5Nm. The esm recommandation is between 1,8 and 2,8 Nm.

The new shim is 0,12mm thinner than the old one that was in place before I change the 3 bearings.

NC77583

Thank you for all the information Pizzai69! I've been following your thread because I have the same situation with my '01. I have two questions for you:
1. Did you remove the transmission from the car, or did you only remove the tailshaft?
2. How difficult was this job overall? I wanna do it, but I also love this car too much to risk messing it up.

pizzai69

I removed the complete gearbox from the car, because I was also doing the clutch.
Obviously, you could only remove the rear part of the trans, which contains the secondary shaft. But it would need a system to hold the rest of the engine+trans and I think the job would be difficult due to accessibility: to torque bolts, clean surfaces before doing the new seal, etc.

For the difficulty, it all depends on you skills... Honestly it was not more difficult than removing the trans from the car, but it needs more specific tools (press etc.) And more precision in measuring, cleaning, etc.