Heater is no longer that hot after replacing coolant
#1
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Thread Starter
Heater is no longer that hot after replacing coolant
I replace a couple of hose clamps that requires unplugging the coolant hose and because of that, a lot of coolant has been drained out. I refill the reservoir back to max level, let the car idle for a few mins and turn it off and refill the reservoir again. I repeat the same process three times until I do not see the coolant level in the reservoir drops before I start driving around. Everything looks ok.. no engine light, temperature gauge bar is right at the middle after the engine warm up. However, when I turn the heater to the maximum, it blows hot air, and yet not as hot as it used to be. I check the radiator upper hose. It is hot which is a good sign. Do I still have some air trapped inside the radiator circulation which stops it from operating under maximum efficiency? If yes, how can I let it out?
Last edited by rudyy; 12-03-2017 at 07:12 AM.
#2
Sounds like you do have air in the system.
Look above in the D.I.Y. stickies and find Billman's coolant bleed procedure.
Follow this and you should be good.
When I flushed my coolant I followed those steps.
I have Blast Furnace heat. And the car runs at the factory spec temps.
Look above in the D.I.Y. stickies and find Billman's coolant bleed procedure.
Follow this and you should be good.
When I flushed my coolant I followed those steps.
I have Blast Furnace heat. And the car runs at the factory spec temps.
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rudyy (12-03-2017)
#3
These cars can be a pain to bleed, and it's a risk if there's air in the system. When it's done properly the heater output will be unmistakably hot.
I agree with looking at Billman's coolant bleed procedure. Last time mine was done (even with the clever funnel that helps with bleeding) there was still air. Make sure to utilize the front bleeder.
I agree with looking at Billman's coolant bleed procedure. Last time mine was done (even with the clever funnel that helps with bleeding) there was still air. Make sure to utilize the front bleeder.
#4
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Thread Starter
Thanks for the info. I follow Billman's advice and do it twice, and I notice that the coolant reservoir drops by half an inch after closing the bleeder valve next to the engine valve cover. Does that mean the coolant from the reservoir has displaced the air coming out of the bleeder valve?
Last edited by rudyy; 12-03-2017 at 09:10 AM.
#6
Thanks for the info. I follow Billman's advice and do it twice, and I notice that the coolant reservoir drops by half an inch after closing the bleeder valve next to the engine valve cover. Does that mean the coolant from the reservoir has displaced the air coming out of the bleeder valve?
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rudyy (12-03-2017)
#9
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Thread Starter
OK. The heater is now getting hotter than it is earlier today. Previously, it is more on the warm side. In the previous round, I can still hear the hissing sound but the squeeze of the upper hose squirts some cooIant out of the bleed valve. I think I am getting close to getting rid of all the air out. Maybe just one or two more rounds.
Thanks for the great writeup.
Thanks for the great writeup.
Last edited by rudyy; 12-03-2017 at 01:02 PM.
#10
OK. The heater is now getting hotter than it is earlier today. Previously, it is more on the warm side. In the previous round, I can still hear the hissing sound but the squeeze of the upper hose squirts some cooIant out of the bleed valve. I think I am getting close to getting rid of all the air out. Maybe just one or two more rounds.
Thanks for the great writeup.
Thanks for the great writeup.
Very good, anyways. Think it's the height of the radiator being lower than some water passageways in the engine. Hard to get those last bits of air out.