weenrock

I thought that was low? Don't they come from the factory with 240?

Car Analogy

Not all gauges are calibrated the same. Its more important that they are all equal.

When you tested:

Was engine warm?

Was throttle plate wide open?

Were fuel injectors all unplugged?

Were all 4 plugs removed?

Did you crank until gauge stopped increasing?

Was battery fully charged?

What gauge did you use?

weenrock

Was engine warm?
Yep. Fully warm.
Was throttle plate wide open?
Yep.
Were fuel injectors all unplugged?
No. But the fuse was pulled.
Were all 4 plugs removed?
No. I pulled one at a time.
Did you crank until gauge stopped increasing?
Yep. Went for about 5 to 8 seconds each
Was battery fully charged?
Yep.
What gauge did you use?
Northern tool brand.

ragtophardtop

They start to care if you write legal letters, which are clearly building a case. If they don't, they will care when an attorney does it.

Car Analogy

If you don't pull all the plugs, it will crank much slower, and your reading will be lowerer. I bet if you redo with plugs removed, readings will be higher.

Also, according to billman, unplugging injectors is the way to go. Not good enough to just pull fuel pump fuse.

weenrock

Good to know. I'll redo it once I have the engine back together.

Update: After some more investigation, it seems one of the vins was completely totaled out and the previous owner used another vin to "join" two broken cars together. I found an update that said the car was overturned. I interpret that as they converted the car from salvaged to rebuilt.

At this point it seems I am stuck with the car. Thankfully Billman confirmed that I can swap the AP1 in (Thanks Billman!), assuming I have all the sensors swapped, which I have already done. I'll be moving forward with getting a Flashpro to tune the car, lower vtec engagement, and raise the rev limiter.

So, I have my old AP2 head that came from my blown engine. It dropped two valves but the retainers look fine. Think I could swap the retainers from my AP2 to this AP1?

maranelloboy05

I really don't understand why you keep saying you're stuck with the car. You were sold a 2005 S2000 with a 2.2L motor and got some hodgepodge S2000 which sounds to be primarily a 2002 with a 2.0L motor. That's clear misrepresentation and any decent auction house would take the car back. How did you pay for it, credit card chargeback? Wouldn't it be worthing spending a bit of money on a lawyer? Why toss away $6500 that easily?

weenrock

Fair point. I am preparing for the worst because the auction is a salvage auction yard (IAAI) that clearly states "as is, where is." My investigation showed that two cars were Frankenstein'd together hence the two vins. Plus, I already dropped the motor out of the car because my goal is to my race car back on the track in April. I have my broker working the auction yard.

If somehow the auction yard agrees to take the car back, I'll have to re-assemble and ship back probably at my expense ($850), then buy another engine. I doubt they'd be willing to compensate me because the auction yard is a middle man between the seller and my broker. At this point I am not seeing the value in all the work I have to re-do again.

maranelloboy05

Thats still a ton of money. Go on eBay, theres half a dozen 06+ shortblocks you can drop right in for $3-3500.

weenrock

Yeah I know. My goal was to get an entire car so I could have a spare diff, tranny, and engine, as well as spare parts. I am still working with my broker to get info from my auction yard. Hindsight would say just get a motor, then I know it would have been fine.

The engine is on my hoist right now so by the end of the weekend I can get it running, sort of.