How to remove your stock exhaust. Offered for your comments
08-07-2017, 05:30 PM
#121
Last edited by S2K632; 08-07-2017 at 05:37 PM.
03-19-2018, 06:16 AM
#122
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: PA
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I ended up cutting one side of the nut to get a flat edge and it eventually came off. Now I'm faced with slightly rusted bolts and would much prefer to install a fresh set of stainless steel bolts/nuts. I am interested to know how hard it is to remove the pressed bolts? Is it even worth trying? I'm headed to Home Depot this evening to get some replacement nuts.
10-21-2020, 08:42 AM
#124
Doubtful to locate those photos due to age.
I have removed exhaust several times now, but never read this diy until now. There are definitely some things mentioned that make it go smoothly for me next time. Well thought out and detailed (and having done it before it all makes sense even without the photos).
But even without the diy, this is not difficult at all, so long as you do one thing. LUBE THE RUBBER HANGERS.
I prefer silicone spray. The dishsoap mentioned should work well too (in a spray bottle, mixed with water). So long as you do that, and use a jack or something to support the weight as you pry these things off, the job isn't hard at all.
The only difficult parts:
Getting the rusted fasteners loose (photos ain't gonna help here. Just good ol' fashioned elbow grease, penetrating oil, and old school mechanic tricks for removing corroded fasteners)
Locating all the rubber hangers (while trying to stoop down and see)
Prying those suckers off. Even well lubed, it takes some muscle
The sequence you take them off isn't super critical. Work front to back mostly.
I have removed exhaust several times now, but never read this diy until now. There are definitely some things mentioned that make it go smoothly for me next time. Well thought out and detailed (and having done it before it all makes sense even without the photos).
But even without the diy, this is not difficult at all, so long as you do one thing. LUBE THE RUBBER HANGERS.
I prefer silicone spray. The dishsoap mentioned should work well too (in a spray bottle, mixed with water). So long as you do that, and use a jack or something to support the weight as you pry these things off, the job isn't hard at all.
The only difficult parts:
Getting the rusted fasteners loose (photos ain't gonna help here. Just good ol' fashioned elbow grease, penetrating oil, and old school mechanic tricks for removing corroded fasteners)
Locating all the rubber hangers (while trying to stoop down and see)
Prying those suckers off. Even well lubed, it takes some muscle
The sequence you take them off isn't super critical. Work front to back mostly.
10-21-2020, 08:54 AM
#125
If you drop the front of the OEM exhaust the tips will pivot up and stick under the rear bumper. It's all one piece. (Multi piece aftermarket exhausts don't have this problem if you take them apart in pieces.)
Loosen everything (PB Blaster on all the nuts several times starting at least a week before the job), remove the cross bar, lube the hangers, and work back to front. Easier to remove everything including the catalytic converter as the top bolt likes to rust-weld itself and it's easier to remove it on the garage floor. In this case the only thing to loosen is the spring bolts. Easy peasy. Removing the rear wheels helps access. Lift or at least jackstands.
-- Chuck
Loosen everything (PB Blaster on all the nuts several times starting at least a week before the job), remove the cross bar, lube the hangers, and work back to front. Easier to remove everything including the catalytic converter as the top bolt likes to rust-weld itself and it's easier to remove it on the garage floor. In this case the only thing to loosen is the spring bolts. Easy peasy. Removing the rear wheels helps access. Lift or at least jackstands.
-- Chuck
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post