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My car doesn't have any issues with temperature as it's in a tropical environment, but I have a similar issue where the steering turns moderately to the right when moving (without input). Tried the reset procedure on a 2000 ap1, paper clip style. I can get the procedure to begin, but right before I do the last centering/straightening of the wheel, the EPS light goes back to flashing the code 23 again. Does that mean anything further ?
My car doesn't have any issues with temperature as it's in a tropical environment, but I have a similar issue where the steering turns moderately to the right when moving (without input). Tried the reset procedure on a 2000 ap1, paper clip style. I can get the procedure to begin, but right before I do the last centering/straightening of the wheel, the EPS light goes back to flashing the code 23 again. Does that mean anything further ?
Note that I have no EPS or CEL codes but the Emergency brake light stays on after the hand brake is down.
My car doesn't have any issues with temperature as it's in a tropical environment, but I have a similar issue where the steering turns moderately to the right when moving (without input). Tried the reset procedure on a 2000 ap1, paper clip style. I can get the procedure to begin, but right before I do the last centering/straightening of the wheel, the EPS light goes back to flashing the code 23 again. Does that mean anything further ?
I don't think you're centering the wheel at the right time.
The light sequence happens regardless of whether you straighten the wheel at the wrong time, or don't straighten it at all, but the last flash sequence is 2 flashes then 3... It's not code 23, it's just the end of the procedure.
Now I can get through the whole procedure, however the blinking results with ONLY 2 blinks.... none after that... I've done it more than 10 times, same result and the steering still wanders hard to the right.
I've used both of these sequences...they're written differently but essentially the same except for whether you HOLD the wheel at 45deg or RELEASE it on the second bit.
1. Align your wheels so they're facing straight.
2. Short the SCS circuit/plug OR
2a. Using a paper clip or backprobes, connect PIN 9 to PIN 4 on the ODBII connector.
3. Turn the steering wheel 45 degrees to the left from the straight ahead position, and hold it in that position.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON (III). The EPS indicator comes on, then it goes off after 4 seconds.
5. Within 4 seconds after the EPS indicator goes off, return the steering wheel to the straight ahead driving position and release the steering wheel. The EPS indicator will come on again 4 seconds after releasing the steering wheel.
5. Within 4 seconds after the EPS indicator comes on, turn the steering wheel to the left45 degree position and hold the steering wheel. The EPS indicator will turn off again after 4 seconds.
6. Within 4 seconds after the EPS indicator goes off, return the steering wheel to the straight ahead driving position and release the steering wheel. Do not move the steering wheel before turning the ignition switch OFF.
NOTE: If the steering wheel is moved, the torque sensor neutral position cannot be written to memory.
7. The EPS indicator blinks twice 4 seconds after releasing the steering wheel, then it blinks three times 5 seconds after. Then, the indicator goes off. The torque sensor neutral position is memorized.
NOTE: If the EPS indicator stays on, there was an error in wrting the torque sensor neutral position to memory. Repeat the procedure from the start.
8. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
9. Disconnect the SCS short.
If the EPS light stays on, you will have to do this process again.
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You need to have the Service Connector plug connected/grounded to initiate the procedure if your car does not have an OBD port (early AP1 ?)... and I tried the method above multiple times and although I was able to get the system into it's mode to execute the procedure (steering wheel left 45 deg, ignition on at position II)... I was not able to complete the procedure before the EPS light defaulted to flashing a code (2 long flashes, 3 short).
So I then found this procedure which is slightly different:
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Memorize Torque Sensor Neutral Position:
With the wheels on the ground:
-Ignition off: Short the DTC connector. Set the steering wheel 45deg to the left.
-Turn the ignition switch to ON. DO NOT start the engine.
-The EPS indicator will go on and then off.
-When the indicator goes off, within 4 seconds, turn the wheel back to straight ahead and release it.
-The indicator will come back on.
-Within 4 seconds turn the wheel back 45deg left and release it.
-The indicator will turn off.
-Within 4 seconds turn the wheel to straight ahead and release it.
-The indicator will blink twice 4 seconds later, and then three times 5 seconds later and the turn off.
-Turn off the ignition.
-Done.
If the indicator is just blinking over and over when you turn the ignition on, the steering wheel is not in the neutral position. You have to try and find it, and when the sequence starts, turn the wheel back to straight ahead within the first 4 second interval, and then continue with the sequence like the NP was straight ahead to begin with.
If you have front wheels installed, their weight coupled with the steering geometry can cause the steering wheel to return to center on its own. So you may have to 'hold' the wheel at 45 degrees. But really all you need to do is make sure the wheel is at 45 when it is supposed to be for this procedure. Hold it, caress it, whatever it takes.
I have done the procedure correctly a number of times and still not getting the 2/3 blink. The steering is very difficult to release into a 'straight' position without turning past center and letting putting into the center/middle... would that cause a problem with the procedure ?
I know this particular car had the clutch changed a few months before I bought it... so I'm not sure if I just need a reset/calibration or need to find a new part... haven't had any fault codes for steering either.
Meh, I have been unable to get a successful run of the reset procedure.
The car is RHD, Singapore market, I am assuming the replacement part would be the same from LHD to RHD cars. Since the car does not have an OBD port for a scanner, I am unsure as to whether the EPS computer or Torque sensor needs to be replaced. Or both.
So you are rich enough to buy an S2000 in Singapore where cars easily cost 3-4 times as much as they do almost anywhere else yet you can't afford to buy a replica Honda Diagnostic System tool manufactured by your neighbors in China that costs roughly $50USD? I have one. It works great...
12-17-2016, 03:35 PM
