st.ryder64

Well, you guys really nailed THAT one. I yanked the plugs when I got home and sure enough, every one was gapped at 0.035. Actually, the 0.035 shim seemed a little loose. Set them all for something between 0.022 and 0.025, and we'll see what things look like after it stops thunderstorming here.

Chuck S

Smaller gap for supercharged? (Always trying to learn. )

-- Chuck

HawkeyeGeoff

For forced induction in general. On my old 600 whp MS3 (around 35 psi) I was having to run about .018" gap to not get blow out. N/A can get away with higher gaps without issue.

HawkeyeGeoff

Yeah the thunderstorms are nuts here right now.

Bite your lip and give 'er hell!!

RolanTHUNDER

I ran Iridium race - BKR8EIX plugs on my Vortech setup and never once did I gap them to any more than they were already pre gapped nor did I experience cut-outs like you did anywhere in the power band except the usual 9200 rpm OEM cut-out. Hopefully your new gaps help the issue but I'm sceptical. Looking forward to the result

st.ryder64

Welp, that didn't work. The stuttering still occurs. Next ideas?

Boosted04S2K

Did you get the ECU already tuned on original owners car or did you tune your car after you installed the SC? Anything else hanging off of your key ring? Try taking the RPM up a little and jiggle the ignition switch. All my ideas, besides verifying the tune on the dyno.

fatjoe10

A good start would be a datalog so we can see what the engine conditions are when the RPM stalls. What engine management does this vehicle have?

st.ryder64

I received the tune from the original owners car, which he fine-tuned after install in mine. Nothing on my keychain other than the Honda remote, but I'll try the jiggle method. Fatjoe, this is a Greddy Emanage Ultimate piggybacked on the OE ECU.

RolanTHUNDER

The eManage is a piggyback unit? This, I never knew. Are there two types, one piggy and the other standalone or has it always been a piggy?