edwards706

This thread will serve as my introduction and a small contribution to the site. I purchased my 2000 S2000 in November 2016 in SC and drove it back to my home in Ohio. Given what the salty roads do to many Midwestern cars, I wanted a southern car, and was pleased with my sight-unseen gamble of a car purchase.The normal fluid changes we done soon after (e.g. engine oil and filter, transmission fluid, differential oil, coolant flush, and brake and clutch fluid). The first issue I found with the car was a leak in the front CV boot of the propeller shaft. While under the car, I noticed a light spray of grease around the transmission tunnel. I did some googling, and found the boots will sometimes leak if the bolts are not torqued properly. The bolts appeared to have had a wrench on them before, so I tightened them and found one was noticeably loose. I tightened it up and hoped my issue was resolved, but a few short hours later I got back under the car and found a drip. It was now clear that the drip was not near the front, where the bolts would snug it up, but at the back of the boot near the retaining band.

Grease spray in the transmission tunnel After cleaning the spray, a new drip emerged; at least I found the issueBack to the forums and I found my options were:1. New propeller shaft from Honda for ~$12002. Take a gamble on a used shaft for a couple hundred bucks, which may or may not have a similar issue3. Rebuild the shaft with a Pegasus “Aero Boot”, since Honda does not deem the propeller shaft as rebuildableThere was no way I was spending the money on a new shaft, and a used shaft seemed like a gamble condition wise, so I ordered the Aero Boot, along with new bolts front and rear, and the recommended Red Line CV-2 Grease.To disassemble, I removed the shaft from the car. Many people report having to cut the bolts to remove the shaft, but thankfully, my bolts were corrosion free and came loose without an issue. Removing the two cap screws and lid revealed a milky brown/white grease. After the snap ring was removed I cleaned the bearing with kerosene and brake cleaner to remove all the old grease, in case any moisture had entered the boot.

Inside the lid with most of the old grease removed
Only photo I have of the old CV boot and some of the old, suspect looking grease
The following weekend, with new parts and grease in hand, I repacked the boot, first the individual bearing (we were able to remove each bearing one at a time, pack it with grease and reassemble), then the new boot itself. I was generous with the grease, but did not pack the rubber boot completely full. I had previously noticed some discussion on this forum as to whether the Pegasus Aero Boot was a direct fit or required some modding. I can confirm the boot was a direct fit and holes lined up fine. It served as a simple, direct replacement for my worn and leaking boot.

Bearings packed with fresh grease
New Pegasus Aero Boot partially packed with grease. the rubber end has already been installed over the spline
I used a small amount of Permatex Grey during reassembly, to ensure a water-tight seal. The retaining band was reused, and appeared to provide a tight fit. Everything went back together without issue, and the new bolts were torqued to 24 ft lbs.
Propeller shaft reinstalled and bolts torqued A little black paint to keep it from rustingI hope this will be helpful if anyone comes across a similar issue. I realize now I should have taken more photos. This thread was a big help in outlining disassembly which I tried not to not reiterate: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un...shaft-1113726/Parts:Pegasus Aero Boot: Part Number: 1472-AERO - Aerodynamic Boot for CV Joint, 94mm https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=1472 Replacement Bolts, Honda Part Numbers: Front: 90182-S2A-000 Rear: 90183-S2A-000

Red Line CV-2 Grease:

edwards706

Apologies for the formatting. Is there any way to edit? Or can a moderator edit for me?

Billman250

Nice job. When you removed the shaft, did you find any oil between the driveshaft flange and the transmission flange?

edwards706

Hi Billman - when I initially removed the prop shaft there was the same grease (oil?) between the prop shaft and transmission flanges. I cleaned up both surfaces and in the week they sat the transmission flange did not appear to leak any oil so I assumed it was sealed. My grease leak also appeared to be solely at the back end of the rubber boot, and not where the flanges meet. I assumed the small pin hole in the lid had allowed grease from inside the bearing to escape to that area between the flanges. Can the transmission oil leak from that flange? Any risk of the grease being mixed with transmission oil?

Car Analogy

Never saw that other thread you linked with more detailed disassembly instructions. Learned a lot today about our propshafts!

That Pegasus boot will work on either end of the shaft, correct?

That other linked post shows the cv's themselves are identical front to rear, its just the end plate that bolts onto them that are different. Therefore it would seem you could reverse your propshaft direction by just swapping end plates.

We swap our left and right driveshaft cv cups when they wear out, which reverses their direction. This works because the wear surfaces rotating in the opposite direction are like new. Would the same thing work for propshaft? Reverse the end plates, repack the grease, and its like a new propshaft, ready for the second half of its lifespan?

ztaffa

Hi i realize the thread is quite old but hopefully someone has some insights. How did you manage to get the caps off, I took the cap screws out, am I missing something else because mine are not budging.

Slowcrash_101

Use an Allen socket. Don't use craftsman or harbor freight.

ztaffa

I got the cap screws out that isn’t the problem I’m having. I have the entire propeller shaft out of the car and both cap screws removed from each cap but the cap still won’t move. Every Allen head bolt i am aware is removed.

vadik_s2k

Can somebody tell me if I got it right - pegasus aero boot does not comes with new splines or any propshaft spline rebuild kit? I'm trying to figure out how to rebuild my propshaft correctly and change the splines as well...

Slowcrash_101

Just out of curiosity, when you mean splines you mean the telescoping CV joints? Or the splines of the prop shaft. The inner cage has splines, but if those are bad you cannot fix it. You will need a new CV joint from a different prop shaft.

The aero boot is just a boot, it replaces the boot on the OEM prop shaft. If the CV joint is damaged and has more than 1/8th inch of play, it's done and cannot be saved. Honda does not sell replacements nor does NTN, unless you're willing to buy them in bulk orders of 1,000+ units.

Might be a good business investment now if you can get them a 120 USD per unit, sell them at a nice markup. Im sure you could sell 1,000 of them in like a year at 200 per. Beats buying used prop shafts and certainly beats buying a brand new prop shaft. Which is over a band after shipping.

I'd do it but I don't happen to have 12k lying around.