Jacking points
Where are the front and rear central jacking points? I saw in a post that one is near the transmission and the other is by the differential. I want to put my car on jackstands to drain the trans and diff.
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People normally confuse the front jacking points. When you look underneath it looks like there are 2 "tabs" sticking out, you want to put the jack under the tab closest to the rear of the car.
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chilicoke FTW
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Thanks!
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Originally Posted by chilicoke,Jul 3 2009, 08:31 PM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../floorjack.gifhttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ackPoints2.jpg
bcuz my 3000lb low profile craftman jack is giving out and that not even quite low enough to accomplish that |
when leaving the car up on jackstands, i've read a few ways to do it on this forum...
one is to put a jackstand at each point as shown in the above diagram, on the 4 "tabs" at each corner of the car AND the other is to put a jackstand on each corner, a little farther in underneath the car on the frame rails i find putting a jackstand on the tab is kinda hard when your tryin to jack at that point as well, so is it 100% safe to be putting the jackstands on the frame? or is that where they are supposed to be in the first place? |
Originally Posted by wonderd,Jul 5 2009, 06:08 PM
what is a good, low enough jack i would be able to use to just go strait under the front of the bumper and be able to reach to the front center jacking point?
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stock height, throw out some brands that u kno would work
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All I do is get the car jack and put it under the center of the car under the pinch weld (not under a tab). I jack it up enough to where i can get my normal craftsman under and jack it all the way up until I have enough room to put two jack stands under the tabs. Works every time.
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haha such a ghetto ramp
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another thing I've done if I want the car up on all 4 jackstands is to jack up one side and then put a long 2x4 on top of two jack stands, aligned with the formed 'rails' in the floorpan. You wouldn't want a single jackstand on that structure as it will bend, but with the 2x4 along the entire length it distributes the weight.
Do this for each side and it's a cinch, and there's no difficulty with the jacking/point jackstand interference. |
Originally Posted by Mar48,Jul 6 2009, 12:50 AM
haha such a ghetto ramp
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Originally Posted by SheDrivesIt,Jul 6 2009, 09:58 AM
Got a better solution, wise guy???
maybe wise guy uses the $300 ones from J's racing? :LOL: :bow: |
$300 2x6s? That JDM lumber must be really good stuff.
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does anyone know a jack that is long enough and low enough to just jack the car up from the front without having to drive it on those things?
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You'll need this if you want to reach the front jacking points.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...483712&hl=omega |
AC Hydraulics makes the best, but it's quite expensive:
http://www.asedeals.com/hydraulicjacks2.html This one from Ranger should work: http://www.rangerproducts.com/products/jac...rfj-3000lpf.php One Ohio S2000 owner purchased an Omega jack that had a low profile and high lift, but I forget the model number. Disclaimer: I use an old (older than most members on this forum) Hein-Werner O'Boy that reaches the front jack point if I lift up on the bumper to unload the suspension a little bit. So I have no personal experience with any of the jacks I've referenced. But you should be able to use a tape measure to determine what jack will reach the front jack point on your car. |
these are the kind of answers i was looking for, thx guys
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The basic harbor freight racing jack works fine on stock height. Even lowered almost 1" (and no lip) can still get in there. Always jack up the front first...if you do the rear first the front will be too low. I've also gotten into the habit of driving the rear tires onto scraps of 2x8 (or 10) so I don't have to worry about hitting the exhaust piping with the jack handle when raising or lowering the rear.
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here's a good question. if my garage floor is level will putting the car up on 4 identical jack stands at the pinch welds on all 4 corners mean the car is jacked up and level so I can do the trans and rear diff fluids?
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Absolutely, that's what many people do. You're not sending anyone to the moon, so you just need to be in the ballpark of flat. Some people even tilt the car to the right to overfill the MTF.
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Originally Posted by wonderd,Jul 5 2009, 05:08 PM
what is a good, low enough jack i would be able to use to just go strait under the front of the bumper and be able to reach to the front center jacking point?
bcuz my 3000lb low profile craftman jack is giving out and that not even quite low enough to accomplish that |
Has anyone had the experience of damage from a dealership improperly lifting the car? They lifted from the two forward lift points, the driver side rear and under the passenger door. They are claiming they couldn't have done the damage. I detailed the car prior to them servicing the car and no I didn't think of taking a picture or video of the car both they services it. The dents weren't there when I cleaned the car and went over it for chips. What damage would you expect from lifting this car like that? Any suggestions on fighting them? Also it was a Honda dealership.
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Originally Posted by Toothlessjoe
(Post 24076005)
Has anyone had the experience of damage from a dealership improperly lifting the car? They lifted from the two forward lift points, the driver side rear and under the passenger door. They are claiming they couldn't have done the damage. I detailed the car prior to them servicing the car and no I didn't think of taking a picture or video of the car both they services it. The dents weren't there when I cleaned the car and went over it for chips. What damage would you expect from lifting this car like that? Any suggestions on fighting them? Also it was a Honda dealership.
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Probably the front tab and made a few dents to the fender. Typical, and yes it is their fault if they did that.
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