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Originally Posted by SUPERAnimal,Jan 7 2008, 04:37 AM
Excellent write up, thank you. That tool that you used to measure the bearing preload what that just an inch/pounds torque wrench with a dial gauge? Thanks.
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[QUOTE=SpitfireS,Jan 7 2008, 11:19 AM] What is the benefit of the solid J's Racing distance piece?
:confused: [COLOR=gray][SIZE=1](What's the benefit of the J's Racing Axle Spacers? |
ShocK Posted on Jan 8 2008, 05:12 AM
first gear acceleration the gears are wanting to separate to the best of their ability but the caps hold them in place, the ring gear would want to come out the back side of the case and the pinion gear would want to come out the front of the case. However instead of a hollow crush collar that could actually do what its meant to and crush under extreme loads Its only crushed during install when you set the pre-load. Much like when you select a shim with the solid distance piece. During crushing it provides a "backbone" for the locking nut to be pressed against. Once crushed it just sits there. Load on the pinion has no effect on the crush sleeve. http://inlinethumb50.webshots.com/38...600x600Q85.jpg Acceleration load is also not transfered to the rear bearing as that bearing is facing in the other direction, a direction to take load decellerating. During acceleration the rear bearing takes little or no load, it does support the pinion obviously. The big front bearing takes it all. I'm not saying the solid piece is bad or worse then the crush sleeve but not any better either. Just a lot harder to install properly and therefore easier to mess up. :hello: |
Hmm, so why have a collar at all if the bearings take the full load? I'm still learning. :)
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Damn man! Your even long winded on paper.
Nice write up. Now, get a life. |
ShocK Posted on Jan 8 2008, 11:28 PM
Hmm, so why have a collar at all if the bearings take the full load? I'm still learning. Backbone comment. In theory you could run the pinion without the crush sleeve or sold distance piece but setting the pre-load on the 2 conical bearings would be very inconsistent and you could not really torque the locking nut down enough to make it stay. Only the plastic locking ring attached to the nut would lock it. The crush sleeve or sold distance piece provides, again, something to press against to create torque to help lock it, locking ring vs torque = 15% vs 85% The only advantage with the solid distance piece is, IMO, that you could use a higher torque on the locking nut as that solid distance piece won't crush any further and does not increase pre-load. No real advantage in my opinion. Most diff failures are IMO happening because of low rev clutch dumps (= operator error) creating huge shock loads, bad install and wrong oil type / oil change interval too long. :hello: How about getting a comment on this from J's or AJ-Racing? Ask J's about their axle spacer too if you can get them to listen. :tipwink: |
Interesting, thanks for the info.
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Thank you for an incredible write up.. just ordered my 4.77's.. a few questions..
1. what new parts do you guys sugget i need to oder before reassembly.. 2.. I have been reading about backlash.. is this measured only by a specialize tool or is there aother method using calipers... any cliff note approach to this install is greatly appreciated.. David.. |
nice, thanks for the writeup. :hello: i love DIY
i'll definitely use it when i rebuild my AP1 diff. |
Good write up. Thanks for the info very helpful :thumbup:
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