KWV3 Installed - passenger rear clunking
10-13-2017, 04:12 AM
#11
Moderator
No type of preloading is required for oem sway bar end links. They can be fully tightened on the lift, with the suspension hanging in any postion.
The links are bearing-type, not torsion type like the a-arms.
The links are bearing-type, not torsion type like the a-arms.
10-13-2017, 05:55 AM
#12
You can remove the end link and loosen all the bushing bolts to let the suspension droop/move freely instead of fighting it.
You need to clock all those bushings anyway. So...might as well loosen them before attempting to remove the stock shocks.
10-13-2017, 05:58 AM
#13
I found it really funny too. But someone posted a service manual photo where honda recommended tightening the links at ride height.
The only thing I can attribute it to is that there is slop in the mounting eyelets of the LCA and swaybar.
10-13-2017, 08:20 AM
#14
Is there any special tricks to tightening the end links? I find it difficult to tighten the nut while holding the Allen key, so I hold the nut and tighten by turning the Allen key instead.
10-13-2017, 10:13 AM
#16
For removing badly rusted ones, clean the exposed threads with a wire brush first. Then grab the non threaded "collar" on the back side of the link stud with needle nose vice grips instead of using an allen wrench. This will allow you to either use an impact or a ratchet while the vice grips hold the stud still.
Clean the threads before re-installing.
To remove non-rusted ones, just use a longer allen wrench and use a ratcheting wrench to get the nut off easily (after busting the nut loose with a breaker bar or long wrench).
Clean the threads before re-installing.
To remove non-rusted ones, just use a longer allen wrench and use a ratcheting wrench to get the nut off easily (after busting the nut loose with a breaker bar or long wrench).
10-15-2017, 07:14 AM
#17
I was just sticking a long curved tool steel Allen wrench in a deep 5mm socket and an extension and using that as my "wrench". Good to know you can vice it instead.
10-15-2017, 09:00 AM
#18
Missing nouns don't help. 
I'm sure I can google KWV3s and and get an answer. OK, I did. Springs under the hood? I was expecting something related to the engine. No help from me in this area (as usual).
-- Chuck
I'm sure I can google KWV3s and and get an answer. OK, I did. Springs under the hood? I was expecting something related to the engine.
No help from me in this area (as usual).-- Chuck
10-15-2017, 03:35 PM
#19
Registered User
10-15-2017, 03:36 PM
#20
Registered User
Had a chance to work on it.
Undid the passenger lower end link bolt and removed out of the eye. Noticed the top link bolt was now moving in the eye despite tightening last night.
Undid the drivers side lower bolt to essentially reset the bar and then tightened the passenger top bolt.
Reinserted both lower bolts and tightened those
No noises whilst driving and no noises on bouncing. Yay!
somehow I must have tighten one end link at the wrong time causing one of the bolts to be off.
All work above was done with the car at rest on the ground and basically reaching between the exhaust and wheel.
Undid the passenger lower end link bolt and removed out of the eye. Noticed the top link bolt was now moving in the eye despite tightening last night.
Undid the drivers side lower bolt to essentially reset the bar and then tightened the passenger top bolt.
Reinserted both lower bolts and tightened those
No noises whilst driving and no noises on bouncing. Yay!
somehow I must have tighten one end link at the wrong time causing one of the bolts to be off.
All work above was done with the car at rest on the ground and basically reaching between the exhaust and wheel.
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