LIFTERS?
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LIFTERS?
(UPDATED) I wonder if one of the lifters could be stuck and making this knocking noise. sounds like it is from the back of head. that's what a few people are saying.
(PREVIOUSLY) ok guys, got the car started. Thanks to BILLMAN... everything in the head is brand new basically including the head...changed the chain, tensioner, and autotensioner, and it still is making a knocking noise in the head. if the autotensioner didnt have the pin in it before puttin it in, could that be a reason why? this is getting so fustrated now, i might buy a new engine soon the way this is going. any help on this one?
thanks for all your help.
Mike
webster.me@gmail.com
(PREVIOUSLY) ok guys, got the car started. Thanks to BILLMAN... everything in the head is brand new basically including the head...changed the chain, tensioner, and autotensioner, and it still is making a knocking noise in the head. if the autotensioner didnt have the pin in it before puttin it in, could that be a reason why? this is getting so fustrated now, i might buy a new engine soon the way this is going. any help on this one?
thanks for all your help.
Mike
webster.me@gmail.com
#2
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i wouldnt think that a bad or faulty tensioner would cause a knocking sound, more like a ticking sound. are you sure its not coming from the block. possibly a rod/bearing.
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Originally Posted by FISH22,Jan 18 2007, 05:10 PM
i wouldnt think that a bad or faulty tensioner would cause a knocking sound, more like a ticking sound. are you sure its not coming from the block. possibly a rod/bearing.
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Originally Posted by Stratocaster,Jan 19 2007, 01:08 PM
Post a sound clip.
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You have an early year AP1 and with the noise described as coming from the rear of the motor, I'd have to guess a bore is scuffed? Does your car have the updated oil jet bolts?
To be perfectly frank I think it'd be really hard to miss a scuffed bore since the head was already off of the car. But then again, the guys that put it back together couldn't get it timed right either. So who knows....
To be perfectly frank I think it'd be really hard to miss a scuffed bore since the head was already off of the car. But then again, the guys that put it back together couldn't get it timed right either. So who knows....
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#8
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There are no lifters in the s2k.
Putting the tensioner in without the pin is a surefire way to break something, mainly the chain guides and chain. Most people who try to put the tensioner in without the pin get about 200 feet then break the chain. You may have a broken guide.
Putting the tensioner in without the pin is a surefire way to break something, mainly the chain guides and chain. Most people who try to put the tensioner in without the pin get about 200 feet then break the chain. You may have a broken guide.
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Originally Posted by Billman250,Jan 19 2007, 03:23 PM
There are no lifters in the s2k.
Putting the tensioner in without the pin is a surefire way to break something, mainly the chain guides and chain. Most people who try to put the tensioner in without the pin get about 200 feet then break the chain. You may have a broken guide.
Putting the tensioner in without the pin is a surefire way to break something, mainly the chain guides and chain. Most people who try to put the tensioner in without the pin get about 200 feet then break the chain. You may have a broken guide.
#10
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Valves should be .008-.010 for intake, .010-.011 for exhaust.
Even if they are out to .013, they will not make substantial noise. Ask him what they were set at during the rebuild.
Even if they are out to .013, they will not make substantial noise. Ask him what they were set at during the rebuild.
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