I have the hardline if all else fails.

Being that the hardline is steel and the MC is aluminum, the line is likely fine.

Look at the angle that the line is going in. If it doesn’t look straight, use a 10mm wrench on the fitting to bend/tweak the line until it is straight. Use pliers on the end of the 10mm wrench.

This is the sort of task that experience is invaluable. Anyone who has wrenched for many years has run into issues like this. Something simple that just won't go.

You learn the tricks. When to just use more force, and when to stop and reassess. When to definitely not use more force.

You also get better at hand eye coordination and manual dexterity. Like is required here.

After loosen mounting like Billman suggested, and tweaking the line if its not going in straight like he explained, do this:

Slide line all way in so flare bottoms out in hole. Its easier to visualize line misalignment this way.

Next, screw fitting BACKWARDS, while applying slight inward pressure. You'll feel a point where fitting falls off ramp of last thread, and pops in slightly. That means threads now perfectly aligned to start engaging.

Now that threads aligned, try hand tightening fitting, while keeping pipe straight.

Anytime you have threads that aren't cooperating, won't engage, try this backwards trick. Feel fastener fall off ramp of last thread, and you'll know threads now aligned to engage.

This is the key. I always rotate the nut or bolt by hand. It's easier to feel when the threads align --- and "drop" into a mating position.

Care is important. You do NOT want to cross-thread brake lines, for sure.

Exactly. :thumbup: This works with every screw and bolt to, of course.

If everything fails, every car shop should be able do make a new steel line, using the old used or damaged one as pattern.
Or simply buy a steel braided one, custom made. There are some around allready, just a example: https://auto.helperformance.com/hel-...and-drive-1999

If you still need the hard line, I should have one laying around.