My saga so far ...2006 S2000 acquired in November, 2023 with 53,128 miles on the clock. Shortly thereafter, I placed the car into winter storage without an oil change as it showed 90% on the maintenance minder.

Compared to my old 2004, car seems to start a little slower, maybe on the second or third rotation of the engine rather than the first. Car runs well without noticeable oil consumption. Maybe just a faint hint of burnt oil on the tail pipes

In 2024 and 2025, I ran the car on track a total of three times, two Track Nights in America and a partial SCCA time trial event. Nothing that I would describe as terribly aggressive. Otherwise just normal street use, mostly highway and back roads.

In October, 2025 with 55,644 miles on the clock, I brought the car in to the local mechanic for a safety and emissions inspection. The car had a “pending code” P0301 for misfire, cylinder #1, stored in computer. The mechanic sent me out to drive the car “to reset the computer”. I probably put 100 miles on the car but the pending code remained present. A compression test showed 150 psi on cylinder #1, while the remaining cylinders were in the 220 – 230 psi range. Compression came back to normal on wet compression test (evidencing piston ring or cylinder wall damage ?). Mechanic checked valve lash which was in spec.

The mechanic suggested adding Restore Engine Restorer & Lubricant. Restore supposedly contains a blend of copper, silver and lead (CSL) particles that help restore compression in worn out engines. When we added the Restore, oil level was at midpoint on the dipstick, 3-4 hatch marks.

I think the mechanic cleared the code with the OBDII reader and then sent me out on a drive to see if the “pending code” P0301 for misfire, cylinder #1, would return. I probably drove another 100 miles. Code did not return and vehicle passed safety and emissions inspection.

Once back home, I decided to change the oil. The car was due and I was uncomfortable driving with the Restore additive. In November with 55,861 miles, I drained the oil. The maintenance minder showed 50% oil life remaining. The bulk of the old oil looked OK, maybe a little bit sparkly, but I attributed that to the Restore additive.

I then tried to investigate the condition of cylinder #1 with a boroscope. The piston and an area around the exhaust valves had a dark “burnt oil” appearance. And I could see two vertical black lines on the cylinder wall. These looked more like edge staining or thin cracks rather than gouges. When I rotated the engine, a curtain of oil dripped down the cylinder wall from the second exhaust valve. Video clips of the boroscope study attached.

You Tube

Eventually, I drained the oil collection pan. I found several large metallic flakes roughly 3/8” x 9/16” (some copper / bronze and some silver in appearance).





I removed the oil pan to examine for any additional metal flakes, especially the oil pump pick-up. Oil pump pick-up screen was clear – no metal debris. No additional metal flakes in the pan, but residual oil did look sparkly. A thin layer of sludge on bottom of the oil pan. Initially, I considered this consistent with engine mileage as the oil pan had not been previously removed. But after decanting virtually all of the free flowing pan oil, the “sludge” at the bottom of the pan appears as a very fine, copper colored material, presumably metal.











I removed the “baffle plate” / “windage tray” to examine its upper area for metal flakes. No additional metal or debris of any kind found.

I did a close examination of the lower engine block. There seems to be a fair amount of casting defects (fine cracks), especially in the lower girdle. One area appears a likely source for some aluminum cast flashing; and that is perhaps the source of the large silvery metal flakes found in the oil pan.





Since this is a 2006, I tried to assess thrust bearing (thrust washer) health by measuring crankshaft end play. Measured at 0.0065, so say 0.006” to 0.007”. Spec. is from 0.004” to 0.014” (manual p. 7-5), so within spec and I deemed thrust bearings to be OK.

I also tried to assess connecting rod end play (side play). By feeler gauge, #1 and #3 connecting rods measured .008” while #2 and #4 measured .009”. Spec is from .006” to .012” (manual p. 7-5), so no smoking gun here.

At this stage, my strong suspicion is that I have valve seal failure, perhaps combined with valve guide failure. But now I’m stuck on the bottom end. With the boroscope, I’ve pulled the codes for sizing rod bearing replacements. Of course, I don’t want to do that job but fear I must. My plan is to order a set of rod bearings and new rod bolts. I can then button up the bottom end and get back on top.

Any ideas as to the source of the big coppery piece in my oil pan or the fine metal particles? What am I missing? Any meaningful suggestion as to where I should go from here?

 

You sure that additive isn't the source of the paste?

 

Yeah, thinking same. Additive crap. That much copper from bearings, you'd have massive knock.

Adding that junk was a dumb idea. Just snake oil.

My thought, rings in cyl 1 are gummed up. Low miles, long periods of no use.

Also, valve stem seals for similar reason. Habit bond created valve stem to seal, sheared when engine then started. I doubt there is an issue with valve guides at that mileage.

What you need is an oil know to loosen rings over time. Lift deposits. Discussed in recent threads. Can't recall brand.

Also discussed in another thread, success with a product meant to be poured into cyl and sit. Ideally with one side of car lifted so piston closer to level (our engine sits canted in bay).

I'd thoroughly clean out that crap, change valve seals, and try the ring release product.

Then drive it, get an oil sample sent to Blackstone.

 

The Valovoline Renew3 and guard? Or was it block and chop, or heal and seal, some fancy name about protecting and restoring.

 

Well hate to be negative guy here but ... if you have copper pieces that large, you have at least one toasted bearing (that is the inner layer of the bearing material). And if not knocking, it very likely is the main bearings. Friends engine did this in the fall. Warm up lap at the track, oil light just barely flickered so he backed off and nursed it back to paddock (oil light stayed off at this point). No noise whatsoever from the engine. Oil filter had copper flakes in it like that so he loaded the car up and we tore it down at my shop a week or so later. Again, no knocking, no oil light on at idle. Rod bearings showed some signs of damage but nothing down to the copper. Pulled the main section and found 2 spun crank bearings. Talked to a well known builder of these engines who said the center mains tend to wear out first. All of the oil runs through those journals so once one spins of course, oil stops and more damage occurs.

If you really have copper pieces that big (or even just sparkly oil) its not clearing up, not going away. I would keep tearing down until you find the issue. Rod bearings at the point you are at are easy to inspect and if none of them show significant damage you likely have damaged mains. Check the head (pull valve cover) first to make sure it is not coming from the cam bearings.

This was the oil drain pain from his and the resulting damage to the lower block from the spun bearings. Crank of course is ruined as well.

 

Those are clear bearing shards, not a fine reddish paste though. I suppose OP has nothing to lose at this point since the pan is already out, may as well pull a rod bearing and see if there's any damage. The rods usually go out before the mains.

 

Yeah I am not sure about the reddish pasty stuff. But the chunks he showed definitely look like copper, which is bearing material.

In my friends case, the rod bearings definitely did not go first. But they are the easiest to inspect so can start there. But if they have only minor scoring or no visible damage I would be looking at the crank/mains next. Again this assumes those chunks he posted are copper but they sure look like it.

 

In addition, having just seen the video, I can tell those exhaust valves are toast. They're beige white, all the carbon deposits on the valve have turned to pure ash, which makes the valve look white. It may be that the copperish bit is a bit of exhaust valve guide.

 

I removed the oil pan to examine for any additional metal flakes, especially the oil pump pick-up. Oil pump pick-up screen was clear – no metal debris. No additional metal flakes in the pan, but residual oil did look sparkly.

Do you still have the oil filter from this last change? Maybe cut it in half and see what you find on the paper.

 

It may also be worth popping the VTEC solenoid off the side of the head and inspecting the metal screen in there as it will collect larger chunks as well when a lower end bearing fails.