Market interest / reception for full engine
 

If this is in the wrong section, please let me know! I didn’t think posting in the marketplace was appropriate because I’m not selling anything at this moment.

I am debating doing an engine swap ( I can hear the boo’s!!) and trying to map out my game plan.

As such I wanted to determine when to pull the existing engine and sell it.

I am am considering selling very soon and using the sale to fund the new engine/swap.
My other option would be to build everything now, do the swap straight up, then sell the engine/trans to recoup the cost down the road.

I am wanting to sequence everything in such a way to make everything fit in a reasonable time / financial project line.

Ideally I would like to Sell engine, buy new bumper, send car to paint shop while nothing in bay, build engine/transmission, get car back from paint, drop engine and start debugging .

But that would be highly dependent on a quick and not bottom barrel pricing on an engine/transmission sale.

So onto my question!
The engine I have is higher mileage AP1 but is in very good shape. I have videos of it running and is strong enough to make me double think my swap ideas. No leaks and the solenoid gaskets replaces recently (today actually).
What would be a fair market price for the engine and trans combo? And is the market pretty fluid? (Are good engines in high demand or could I expect to wait a bit for a buyer, pricing being fair and market driven)?

market price of s2000 parts.

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/member-s...t-out-1189837/

BNIB F22C short block goes for around $6700 if you can find a vendor selling one - sold out with Honda.

I'd think a used F20C long block would be around $3500-$4000 depending on mileage and compression numbers. People probably want even compression at 210 and up across all 4 cylinders.

Transmission is $600-$800.

Solid information!

I am going to adjust valves and do a compression test either today or tomorrow. I’m confident with the engine that I won’t run into issues. But it’s way better to test than go blindly!

With that high of a price, I’m guessing that the engine and transmission are in higher demand? (I am debating taking a hit and pricing it Low in order to facilitate a much faster turnover)

Most used engines I see are in the $2,700-3,600 range. And around $3,900-4,300 with trans and ecu.

Mileage doesn't matter, all that matters are compression leakdown and oil consumption. If those are within specs its a good engine.

This thread got me thinking, so I checked with Honda today on price and availability for the New-In-Box 2.2L 06-09 shortblock. The only difference between this engine and the 04-05 engine is the trigger wheel behind the timing cover.

Still available, my cost is 6k even out the door. Honda stock shows available in Cali warehouse.

From all my lurking, your name keeps coming up as the go to for info and community involvement! This info is invaluable because it gives me the market range i need to make sure I am not taking the farm so to say!

I think I may end up pricing as a ShortBlock with trans and ECU, despite it actually being a long block (going completely different platform).

Thanks for the input and thanks for being a reputable badass.

Alright, I actually got the compression test done today due to my net being out (yay working from home?).

The plugs looked decent, but i still replaced them with some bosch because I was taught replacing those and the battery would alleviate any "surprises".

The compression test was pretty damn decent, with the first 3 cylinders (closest to the timing chain) all right at 220 (dial indicator, so it could be 1 or 2 lbs difference) and the last (closest to firewall) being 225.

I know you said "and up" but is there is "oh shit!" level too high?

Better to use oem type plugs, not Bosch.

Regarding your engine swap plan. While its ok to build the engine while car is in paint and drop it in afterwards, its a horrible idea to FIT the engine in after paint. There will be cutting. There will be welding. There will be moving things around, drilling. Reengineering things to fit.

You wanna do that BEFORE paint and bodywork. Leave the new motor intact, get it, and all the rest of the stuff to fit. Intake, belt driven accessories. Everything down to the horns. Once its all where you want it and solidly mounted, pull it out to disassemble and build, and send car to bodyshop.

Great point concerning the fitment and working on it afterwards!

Curious though on your opinion on the plugs. Are they bad in your experience?

NGK OEM plugs only. Plugs aren't an expensive item that you should be substituting for non-OEM. There is no performance gain for doing so, but there could easily be performance detriment - could be anecdotal, but failure here could be costly...

https://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com...1hbnVhbA%3D%3D

regarding compression numbers, I was being generous. 240 isn't out of the ordinary. Mine were 230-235 last time I had it done.