MY02 died, probably rod/bearing
08-26-2010, 06:07 PM
#1
Thread Starter
MY02 died, probably rod/bearing
Made it to 175,000 miles. Thought it would be more, but...
On the way home from work, doing 80mph in 4th gear (~6,000 rpm) on interstate. Heard the engine begin to growl (louder than it normally does). Another mile, louder still...sounded like when you have a hole in exhaust, but instead coming from the engine bay. Another mile, CEL comes on...not flashing, but solid. Two more miles, I exit interstate, and engine dies as I roll to a stop at the intersection. Towed home. Called Dad, described sounds, and he said it was probably a rod or bearing. Tried to start, engine sounds like it's very hard to start (really pulling on the battery), then started for 1 second where it sounded like a loud flapping/banging from the engine bay, I shut it back down immediately. Pulled CEL codes 1456 (gas cap, I believe) and 1399 (random misfire on cylinder 1).
By the way, the clutch has been slipping for a month, so I was already about to get that redone...
Research on here shows to remove oil pan and check for metal, scoring on the rod bearing,
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=217670
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=812116
Did not see any rods peeking out of the motor. I really don't have the time in the next couple of months to take the car apart and give a more detailed look (about to change jobs, finish school projects, redo the house, wah wah).
BUT I DO HAVE A PROJECT CAR, an S2000 with engine at 50,000 miles and transmission (same age). It could be a donor.
So I want to know what is cheaper:
towing both cars in and having someone swap the engine/transmission from one to the other (and just dealing with the bad engine/worn transmission when I get around to my project car in a few years)?
or taking my car in for new rod/bearing/shaft/whatever?
I'm trying to get a head on prices/labor required for each, especially what "may have happened" if the rod/bearing isn't the end of the story. If you've done this in the past, what have you paid? Thanks in advance for any advice.
On the way home from work, doing 80mph in 4th gear (~6,000 rpm) on interstate. Heard the engine begin to growl (louder than it normally does). Another mile, louder still...sounded like when you have a hole in exhaust, but instead coming from the engine bay. Another mile, CEL comes on...not flashing, but solid. Two more miles, I exit interstate, and engine dies as I roll to a stop at the intersection. Towed home. Called Dad, described sounds, and he said it was probably a rod or bearing. Tried to start, engine sounds like it's very hard to start (really pulling on the battery), then started for 1 second where it sounded like a loud flapping/banging from the engine bay, I shut it back down immediately. Pulled CEL codes 1456 (gas cap, I believe) and 1399 (random misfire on cylinder 1).
By the way, the clutch has been slipping for a month, so I was already about to get that redone...
Research on here shows to remove oil pan and check for metal, scoring on the rod bearing,
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=217670
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=812116
Did not see any rods peeking out of the motor. I really don't have the time in the next couple of months to take the car apart and give a more detailed look (about to change jobs, finish school projects, redo the house, wah wah).
BUT I DO HAVE A PROJECT CAR, an S2000 with engine at 50,000 miles and transmission (same age). It could be a donor.
So I want to know what is cheaper:
towing both cars in and having someone swap the engine/transmission from one to the other (and just dealing with the bad engine/worn transmission when I get around to my project car in a few years)?
or taking my car in for new rod/bearing/shaft/whatever?
I'm trying to get a head on prices/labor required for each, especially what "may have happened" if the rod/bearing isn't the end of the story. If you've done this in the past, what have you paid? Thanks in advance for any advice.
08-26-2010, 06:45 PM
#2
I would swap engines with the donor.
You'll probably have metal shavings, etc. floating around the damaged engine, and you won't know if there's anything else wrong until you get it open. If your donor car is a known good working engine, then just swap it for now, and deal with the bad motor when you have time.
You'll probably have metal shavings, etc. floating around the damaged engine, and you won't know if there's anything else wrong until you get it open. If your donor car is a known good working engine, then just swap it for now, and deal with the bad motor when you have time.
10-16-2010, 10:36 PM
#6
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by spets,Aug 27 2010, 07:15 AM
I would swap engines with the donor.
You'll probably have metal shavings, etc. floating around the damaged engine, and you won't know if there's anything else wrong until you get it open. If your donor car is a known good working engine, then just swap it for now, and deal with the bad motor when you have time.
You'll probably have metal shavings, etc. floating around the damaged engine, and you won't know if there's anything else wrong until you get it open. If your donor car is a known good working engine, then just swap it for now, and deal with the bad motor when you have time.
Originally Posted by ifly1956,Aug 27 2010, 02:17 PM
Do the swap - rebuilding my bottom end ran $2,600 in parts alone - $1,100 of that was a new crank.
Anyone know someone/someplace in Baltimore (or vicinity) area that they'd trust to do this? My suspicions are if I take it to just any shop they'll have never seen it and waste labor time/(my $), mess up bolting my subframes back in, etc . . . so your recommendations, please! thanks, RJ
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10-17-2010, 05:37 PM
#8
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by s2klariat,Oct 17 2010, 07:50 PM
Swap it yourself. There's nothing like the ease of mind knowing everything was done correctly
If I had a two post lift (which I planned on getting...soon), it is possible to just disconnect engine/trans/subframes etc and lift the chassis UP AND OFF, wheel the replacements in, and lower the chassis back to reconnect everything? Or do I NEED to pick the engine out? (see OP: I have a donor car w/everything). Anyone who's done the same before: up and out or can I lift the chassis off? Which is easier/safer/quicker? thanks in advance, RJ
