Need Help With Cam Timing Issue And Also Have A Question About Old Fuel
#1
Need Help With Cam Timing Issue And Also Have A Question About Old Fuel
I'm in a time crunch and need some help with my stock 2006 S2k regarding cam timing, and I also have a question about old fuel in my gas tank.
CAM TIMING QUESTION:
I'm putting my motor back together after a blown head gasket and my cam timing seems off. The head has never been resurfaced and is perfectly straight and within spec. The block was warped and had to be decked, but the machine shop forgot how much was removed; they guessed around .008" I'm using an OEM head gasket.
For some reason the timing marks on my cams don't seem to be perfectly lined up/ level with each other. If I drew a line between the cam timing marks, the exhaust cam mark seems to be just a tiny bit off from the intake cam's timing mark; there seems to be about 1/2 tooth or less of difference (see pics below). I tried repositioning the exhaust cam, but it doesn't line up perfectly with the intake cam mark no matter what I seem to do. I also noticed the exhaust cam had a little wobble/freeplay when the cam caps were off. I was hoping after I put the cam caps on, that it'd level out the exhaust cam timing mark but it didn't. I stopped at this point and also haven't gotten to adjusting the valves yet since i'm not perfectly at TDC.
The crank pulley's white TDC mark seems perfectly aligned with the pointer, and the timing chain sprocket's TDC marks are also dead on perfect with the surface of the head. I have a Ballade adjustable timing gear, and I have it set to one notch/line on the "-" side which made my timing sprocket sit dead on TDC. Could that be the reason? If I set the adjustable gear back to "zero" then I'm not sure the timing marks on the gear will be perfectly level with the head's surface.
Is my timing off? Why? How do I fix this and am I going to have to take the TCT out to address this?
QUESTION ABOUT OLD FUEL IN MY GAS TANK:
My car has been down for about 3 years now and there's still old gas in the gas tank which I'm guessing won't combust. I don't know how much gas is in there since the battery is out and i'm still putting the motor back together, but it's probably not a full tank.
What's the easiest/safest way to get the old gas out since the car probably wont start with it? Can I just mix in some new gas on top of whatever is left over from 3 years ago to get the car to start, or do I have to get rid of the old fuel first?
Thanks in advance.
crank pulley seems to be at TDC. this is also the highest point of the piston #1
note the exhaust cam timing mark on the left, it's slightly lower than the intake timing mark on the right.
i added some red paint to highlight the timing marks on the gears
i feel the adjustable timing sprocket and intake cam gear are fine, but the exhaust seems to be off by half a tooth or less
not sure if the cam caps will sit flush after i torque them down fully, or if the cams are being slightly pushed up for some reason
CAM TIMING QUESTION:
I'm putting my motor back together after a blown head gasket and my cam timing seems off. The head has never been resurfaced and is perfectly straight and within spec. The block was warped and had to be decked, but the machine shop forgot how much was removed; they guessed around .008" I'm using an OEM head gasket.
For some reason the timing marks on my cams don't seem to be perfectly lined up/ level with each other. If I drew a line between the cam timing marks, the exhaust cam mark seems to be just a tiny bit off from the intake cam's timing mark; there seems to be about 1/2 tooth or less of difference (see pics below). I tried repositioning the exhaust cam, but it doesn't line up perfectly with the intake cam mark no matter what I seem to do. I also noticed the exhaust cam had a little wobble/freeplay when the cam caps were off. I was hoping after I put the cam caps on, that it'd level out the exhaust cam timing mark but it didn't. I stopped at this point and also haven't gotten to adjusting the valves yet since i'm not perfectly at TDC.
The crank pulley's white TDC mark seems perfectly aligned with the pointer, and the timing chain sprocket's TDC marks are also dead on perfect with the surface of the head. I have a Ballade adjustable timing gear, and I have it set to one notch/line on the "-" side which made my timing sprocket sit dead on TDC. Could that be the reason? If I set the adjustable gear back to "zero" then I'm not sure the timing marks on the gear will be perfectly level with the head's surface.
Is my timing off? Why? How do I fix this and am I going to have to take the TCT out to address this?
QUESTION ABOUT OLD FUEL IN MY GAS TANK:
My car has been down for about 3 years now and there's still old gas in the gas tank which I'm guessing won't combust. I don't know how much gas is in there since the battery is out and i'm still putting the motor back together, but it's probably not a full tank.
What's the easiest/safest way to get the old gas out since the car probably wont start with it? Can I just mix in some new gas on top of whatever is left over from 3 years ago to get the car to start, or do I have to get rid of the old fuel first?
Thanks in advance.
crank pulley seems to be at TDC. this is also the highest point of the piston #1
note the exhaust cam timing mark on the left, it's slightly lower than the intake timing mark on the right.
i added some red paint to highlight the timing marks on the gears
i feel the adjustable timing sprocket and intake cam gear are fine, but the exhaust seems to be off by half a tooth or less
not sure if the cam caps will sit flush after i torque them down fully, or if the cams are being slightly pushed up for some reason
#3
No clue about the cam timing other than the horror stories I recall about "decking" the cylinder block.
The old fuel issue is easy. Drain the tank. Even my lawn mower specifies fuel less than 30 days old unless it was stabilized when placed in the fuel tank. I had to rebuild all three carburetors on my Honda (of course) outboard due to old fuel and two years of inactivity. Gets easier after the 2d carb. I intuitively think the injectors on our engines will need similar maintenance.
-- Chuck
The old fuel issue is easy. Drain the tank. Even my lawn mower specifies fuel less than 30 days old unless it was stabilized when placed in the fuel tank. I had to rebuild all three carburetors on my Honda (of course) outboard due to old fuel and two years of inactivity. Gets easier after the 2d carb. I intuitively think the injectors on our engines will need similar maintenance.
-- Chuck
#4
By the way, do you have any advice for getting rid of the old fuel in my tank? Could I just add new fuel on top of it without draining it first?
#5
No clue about the cam timing other than the horror stories I recall about "decking" the cylinder block.
The old fuel issue is easy. Drain the tank. Even my lawn mower specifies fuel less than 30 days old unless it was stabilized when placed in the fuel tank. I had to rebuild all three carburetors on my Honda (of course) outboard due to old fuel and two years of inactivity. Gets easier after the 2d carb. I intuitively think the injectors on our engines will need similar maintenance.
-- Chuck
The old fuel issue is easy. Drain the tank. Even my lawn mower specifies fuel less than 30 days old unless it was stabilized when placed in the fuel tank. I had to rebuild all three carburetors on my Honda (of course) outboard due to old fuel and two years of inactivity. Gets easier after the 2d carb. I intuitively think the injectors on our engines will need similar maintenance.
-- Chuck
#6
If the cams aren't fully seated it's not much use speculating what is out of sync and not.
Just back out all the valve adjustment screws and check again, when you tighten the caps make sure to do it in steps and follow the pattern in the manual.
I think it's possible to siphon out the fuel if you use a really thin and slightly stiff tube.
Another option would be to connect a drain hose to the fuel pressure regulator and then cycle the ignition on/off to let the fuel pump drain it out.
Fuel pump only runs a couple of seconds on each key on though so it might take some time, be careful to run it completely dry as the pump doesn't like that.
Just back out all the valve adjustment screws and check again, when you tighten the caps make sure to do it in steps and follow the pattern in the manual.
I think it's possible to siphon out the fuel if you use a really thin and slightly stiff tube.
Another option would be to connect a drain hose to the fuel pressure regulator and then cycle the ignition on/off to let the fuel pump drain it out.
Fuel pump only runs a couple of seconds on each key on though so it might take some time, be careful to run it completely dry as the pump doesn't like that.
#7
If the cams aren't fully seated it's not much use speculating what is out of sync and not.
Just back out all the valve adjustment screws and check again, when you tighten the caps make sure to do it in steps and follow the pattern in the manual.
I think it's possible to siphon out the fuel if you use a really thin and slightly stiff tube.
Another option would be to connect a drain hose to the fuel pressure regulator and then cycle the ignition on/off to let the fuel pump drain it out.
Fuel pump only runs a couple of seconds on each key on though so it might take some time, be careful to run it completely dry as the pump doesn't like that.
Just back out all the valve adjustment screws and check again, when you tighten the caps make sure to do it in steps and follow the pattern in the manual.
I think it's possible to siphon out the fuel if you use a really thin and slightly stiff tube.
Another option would be to connect a drain hose to the fuel pressure regulator and then cycle the ignition on/off to let the fuel pump drain it out.
Fuel pump only runs a couple of seconds on each key on though so it might take some time, be careful to run it completely dry as the pump doesn't like that.
As far as the fuel issue, do you think you could please possibly send me a pic or a drawing of where on the fuel pressure regulator you think I can disconnect it and drain the fuel from... Just something to help me visualize it better. This is the last step i need to do to get the car started and I'm stuck on it. Thanks so much.
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#8
I see you got a 2006 now and they use a returnless system so they don't have a regulator on the fuel rail.
Might be possible to disconnect the feed line and use that to empty the tank.
But it's probably going to get really messy with fuel everywhere unless you can connect another piece of hose and route it out of the engine bay.
Check the diagram here, B-4-1 is where your fuel feed connects https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-...old.html?PNC=3
Might be possible to disconnect the feed line and use that to empty the tank.
But it's probably going to get really messy with fuel everywhere unless you can connect another piece of hose and route it out of the engine bay.
Check the diagram here, B-4-1 is where your fuel feed connects https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-...old.html?PNC=3
#9
Try via the fuel filler in the fender first but there are usually anti-siphon devices there. Several points of access to the fuel tank if you can't get a hose in from the fender port.
Remove the fuel pump and there's a gaping hole in the roof of the fuel tank which will allow a large hose to be inserted and siphon/pump the fuel out.
Same with removing the filler neck from the tank and getting it out that way.
Check out the diagram.
-- Chuck
Remove the fuel pump and there's a gaping hole in the roof of the fuel tank which will allow a large hose to be inserted and siphon/pump the fuel out.
Same with removing the filler neck from the tank and getting it out that way.
Check out the diagram.
-- Chuck
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