Need help getting air out of the brake system
******THIS ISSUE HAS BEEN RESOLVED (post #10)******
I bumped the post to update it with the solution. I hate open ended posts when I'm researching a problem I'm having. Just trying to help the next person. I installed Stoptech brake lines and let the brake fluid drain out. Now I'm dealing with the consequences. I have tried following RobRob's guide to bleeding the master cylinder - I tried at the MC itself and at the ABS output ports. I've tried gravity bleeding multiple times for a LONG time at each corner. I've tried the old fashioned 2 person bleeding method, running a ton of fluid through each corner. I'm not getting ANY air out during these attempts, but I can't get pedal pressure back. What is the next step? |
Originally Posted by Deckoz
(Post 24520755)
Did you treat it like you are priming a new master cylinder?
Disconnect the two lines coming out the side of the master, hook up bleed hoses to these ports, feed them back into the reservoir, and go pump, once the master is primed, hook the hardlines back up then gravity bleed in order. |
I wish I could find the Billman method for solving this. As I recall you depress the brake pedal and keep it there by bracing the pedal with wood pieces or other objects on the front seat, overnight.
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Originally Posted by cosmomiller
(Post 24520945)
I wish I could find the Billman method for solving this. As I recall you depress the brake pedal and keep it there by bracing the pedal with wood pieces or other objects on the front seat, overnight.
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I actually just found that post about wedging the brake pedal today while searching and plan to try it tonight.
I can't engage ABS though. I'm having ongoing issues with that also. The ABS light is on, but there aren't any codes. Scanner says no communication. I tried replacing the module, but that didn't fix it. I might have a broken wire or something but haven't had time to diagnose that any further yet. |
Originally Posted by ISADE
(Post 24520971)
Yes have you tried this yet? After you leave the brake pedal depressed overnight, take the car for a drive and engage ABS a bunch of times, at least 5. You will feel the pedal change. I've had to do this on the S2000 and my TSX and when you first engage ABS you will skid tires because the ABS won't be engaging right away but it will start to engage and that's when you know you're getting the air out. Then you will have to bleed again.
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Originally Posted by HarryD
(Post 24521099)
I have tried the Billman method and have not experienced these issues you're saying -- out of the many years that people have been trying it, this is the first I've heard of it causing "ABS" issues -- that doesn't even make sense to me. But rock on.
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So wedging the brake pedal didn't do anything for me. I looked at the fluid I drained out during bleeding and saw some black specs. I picked out one relatively large piece and it felt like rubber. Starting to think I got the air out but damaged the MC during bleeding. Probably getting pieces of a seal in the fluid.
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Damaged master cylinder seal would explain why brake pressure is missing. Maybe it was damaged earlier?
Gravity bleed doesn't work when you have air in lines. It's only for regular fluid change. Two person method or wedging the brake pedal overnight should work. |
For the record, my issue WAS the master cylinder. My helper was putting the pedal to the floor during bleeding and must have damaged the seals. I replaced it with a refurbished unit from Advance Auto, and I now have my pedal back.
For fun, I tried to disassemble the MC and look at the seals. The rear piston came right out, and the seal looked fine. The front one was stuck all the way forward. No amount of banging the MC against the work bench was getting it out either. |
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