Need help on turning off CEL????
Hello EVERYONE, my name is Steven aka ( yellow banana)
I have a question. My check engine light is on after I installed a supercharger, ss headers, ss test pipe and ss exhaust system by COMPTECH. I know that the test pipe will make the (CEL) come on. Is there any way that the (CEL) be turn off??? I was told by a friend that if the (CEL) is on, the car would be driving on SAFETY MODE and that it will lose some power?? Dose anyone know the answer.....
Any tip or answer would help............thank you
I have a question. My check engine light is on after I installed a supercharger, ss headers, ss test pipe and ss exhaust system by COMPTECH. I know that the test pipe will make the (CEL) come on. Is there any way that the (CEL) be turn off??? I was told by a friend that if the (CEL) is on, the car would be driving on SAFETY MODE and that it will lose some power?? Dose anyone know the answer.....
Any tip or answer would help............thank you
Unless you rectify what it is that is causing the light to come on in the first place, it will only come again.
But to answer your question, you pull the fuse that is in the 3rd slot on the right bank of fuses under the dash. This is the ECU back-up fuse. In your car, this will be the 2nd fuse you'll find as the 1st slot is empty. Pull it out for about 30 seconds and put it back in. Car must be turned OFF.
But to answer your question, you pull the fuse that is in the 3rd slot on the right bank of fuses under the dash. This is the ECU back-up fuse. In your car, this will be the 2nd fuse you'll find as the 1st slot is empty. Pull it out for about 30 seconds and put it back in. Car must be turned OFF.
If you want to run a test pipe without constantly getting a CEL, you have 2 options.
You can pull the fuse that xviper is talking about, and leave it out. This will reset your ECU every time the car is turned off. The ECU will not see the multiple cycles that are needed for it to detect the test pipe. The biggest downside to this is that your idle will suck.
Your other option is to buy an O2 simulator. I bought one, and it is easy to install, and works perfectly. You can get one from http://www.casperselectronics.com
You can pull the fuse that xviper is talking about, and leave it out. This will reset your ECU every time the car is turned off. The ECU will not see the multiple cycles that are needed for it to detect the test pipe. The biggest downside to this is that your idle will suck.
Your other option is to buy an O2 simulator. I bought one, and it is easy to install, and works perfectly. You can get one from http://www.casperselectronics.com
I don't have a list of codes, but I don't see any reason why you shouldn't just install your O2 simulator permenantly. I installed my simulator inside the cabin at the ECU. I provide the simulator with power from an ACC line, and connected the signal wire to pin 15 on ECU connector 3 (white / red). I didn't want a mechanic to see the simulator spliced into my O2 harness.
I pulled my fuse and left it out. Idle will suck but aggressively gapping the plugs will solve this.......(.50) with champions copper plus plugs......WOW my car runs like a bull with gas...yeeeehaaaa! Pulls real hard. Before i changed to these plugs my idle sucked when ya rev the car slightly at a stop sign or light it will want to stall when coming down. The .50 gapping with the champs whave solved this problem for me
.....Your cel will still work for bigger engine problems.....I.E. fouled plug or missing cylinder with the fuse still missing
.....Your cel will still work for bigger engine problems.....I.E. fouled plug or missing cylinder with the fuse still missing
Originally posted by ItalianBucwheat
I pulled my fuse and left it out. Idle will suck but aggressively gapping the plugs will solve this.......(.50) with champions copper plus plugs......WOW my car runs like a bull with gas...yeeeehaaaa! Pulls real hard. Before i changed to these plugs my idle sucked when ya rev the car slightly at a stop sign or light it will want to stall when coming down. The .50 gapping with the champs whave solved this problem for me
.....Your cel will still work for bigger engine problems.....I.E. fouled plug or missing cylinder with the fuse still missing
I pulled my fuse and left it out. Idle will suck but aggressively gapping the plugs will solve this.......(.50) with champions copper plus plugs......WOW my car runs like a bull with gas...yeeeehaaaa! Pulls real hard. Before i changed to these plugs my idle sucked when ya rev the car slightly at a stop sign or light it will want to stall when coming down. The .50 gapping with the champs whave solved this problem for me
.....Your cel will still work for bigger engine problems.....I.E. fouled plug or missing cylinder with the fuse still missing
Hello, everyone
I went out and bought a 02 simulator by casper and installed it, I pulled the fuse to reset the car(100amp fuse under the hood). The CEL was off until the 3rd to 5th start and it came back on again. I want to take out my 02 sensor and weld some of those hole shut, has anyone tried this method before???????
I dont want to run the car with suck idleing due to a fuse being pulled. so if anyone out there that can pull a rabbit out of there hats please let me know. NEED THAT LIGHT TURN OFF
Ps:I really appreciated for all the hints and tips
YOU GUYS ARE THE BOMB!!!!!!!
If you you guys ever need my help I be there, you never know it a small world.
I went out and bought a 02 simulator by casper and installed it, I pulled the fuse to reset the car(100amp fuse under the hood). The CEL was off until the 3rd to 5th start and it came back on again. I want to take out my 02 sensor and weld some of those hole shut, has anyone tried this method before???????
I dont want to run the car with suck idleing due to a fuse being pulled. so if anyone out there that can pull a rabbit out of there hats please let me know. NEED THAT LIGHT TURN OFF
Ps:I really appreciated for all the hints and tips
YOU GUYS ARE THE BOMB!!!!!!!
If you you guys ever need my help I be there, you never know it a small world.
Trending Topics
Even with a working O2 simulator, you still need the O2 sensor connected to its power source. The ECU will detect a "no load" from the O2 sensor heater. If you want to remove it from the cat., you can, but it must stay wired.
My O2 simulator actually worked great for around 300 miles (25 drives), then quit. I think there is still work to be done on the simulator.
My O2 simulator actually worked great for around 300 miles (25 drives), then quit. I think there is still work to be done on the simulator.
I called Casper's Electronics this morning. Justin was not available, and the person I spoke with had disturbing news. He said that no O2 simulator will prevent a CEL. He said that the ECU will periodically produce a known lean condition, to test the O2 sensors. Since the simulator won't change its output, the ECU will always throw a code eventually. This makes me wonder why they even make the damn thing if it "can't work". He basically said that the simulator just extends the time it takes for the CEL to come on, if the conditions are just right.
He suggested resetting the CEL using an OBD-II scan tool, instead of resetting the ECU. He said that the ECU will always do the O2 sensor test soon after a reset, but will wait longer if the code is cleared via OBD-II.
He suggested resetting the CEL using an OBD-II scan tool, instead of resetting the ECU. He said that the ECU will always do the O2 sensor test soon after a reset, but will wait longer if the code is cleared via OBD-II.


