S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

new starter won't start ?

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Old 03-26-2017, 02:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Chuck S
Sounds like it. Autozone (etc.) should be able to test the battery right in the car with a meter that functions like the one above.

-- Chuck
New battery arrived: the car starts! sometimes after 1 second and sometimes after 5 seconds holding the startbutton.
Maybe there is still something wrong, i don't know? Because sometimes he doesn't start inmediatly after pushing the button.
Changing bougies maybe will help?
Old 03-26-2017, 04:59 AM
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bougies? Not even google was any help ...

The starter motor just spins the car engine. I'm assuming this happens immediately on pressing Start. Again assuming the motor is spinning fast enough the car will start. 5 seconds is a long time. I normally just have to stab the button to start the car.

New batteries are seldom 100% charged. Overnight on a good charger will ensure the new battery is in top condition. The car alternator and voltage regulator conspire to merely trickle charge the battery while driving because normal starting the car uses little power so only little power needs to be replaced.

-- Chuck
Old 03-26-2017, 06:16 AM
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"Bougies" = candles, in French. Slang for headlights? Grasping at straws, here

Last edited by windhund116; 03-26-2017 at 06:19 AM.
Old 03-28-2017, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Chuck S
bougies? Not even google was any help ...

The starter motor just spins the car engine. I'm assuming this happens immediately on pressing Start. Again assuming the motor is spinning fast enough the car will start. 5 seconds is a long time. I normally just have to stab the button to start the car.

New batteries are seldom 100% charged. Overnight on a good charger will ensure the new battery is in top condition. The car alternator and voltage regulator conspire to merely trickle charge the battery while driving because normal starting the car uses little power so only little power needs to be replaced.

-- Chuck
bougies: sparking plugs ^^ sorry about my language mistake.

i think i'll have to check the voltage of my alternator and groundcables if they don't have a bad contact.
I'll recharge the new battery and we'll see but with the alternator running, it should recharge while driving.

Yesterday i've went to some places and i came home, shutted down the car, 10 minutes later starting it again and he did not start for like 10-15 seconds, a loud noise and cracle from the starter untill he finally started. So I think it's the battery who isn't strong enough or hasn't enough power to crank the engine. But when i installed the new battery 4 days ago he did start inmediatly after pushing the startbutton once...
What could this be? I'm starting to think about the alternator or groundcables that have a bad connection?

(already new starter, new battery, new clips for battery + and - to cables)
Old 03-28-2017, 10:35 AM
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The alternator just trickle charges the battery and if it's dead it can take hours for a full recharge.

Connections are always the first suspects. Start there.

Any aftermarket electrical devices like alarms, etc. that may be wired directly to the battery and discharge it constantly?

-- Chuck
Old 03-28-2017, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Chuck S
The alternator just trickle charges the battery and if it's dead it can take hours for a full recharge.

Connections are always the first suspects. Start there.

Any aftermarket electrical devices like alarms, etc. that may be wired directly to the battery and discharge it constantly?

-- Chuck
The aftermarket has been taken out. Only a part of the alarm is still under my seat but the wire to my dash is also cut out so not possible i guess?
I'll start with the connections and cables, after that i'll use a voltage-meter for alternator
Old 03-28-2017, 12:08 PM
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Have you tried to check for parasitic current draw? Here's a good YT about how-to-do-it:

Old 03-28-2017, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by windhund116
Have you tried to check for parasitic current draw? Here's a good YT about how-to-do-it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF1gijj03_0
no i haven't. I'll watch this video and check it.
Old 03-31-2017, 02:20 AM
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Here is an update:

I checked my battery, car not running: 12,7 volt
I did the parasitic draw test for any leaks: got 0.001A so i don't have a leak. I tried this with the ignition on and then i got 8A. (to test if i was doing it right).
So next step was trying to start my engige, because battery seems to be okay and there was no elektronic leak. IT STARTS without any difficulties on the first push on my startbutton.
Now I checked the alternator: car running without radio / headlights / .... : 14.4 volt
Now i checked the alternator: car running with radio / headlights/ ... : 14.0 volt

So it all seems to be working good and it started well..
4 days ago after driving and starting my car up to 4 / 5 times, the 4th and 5th time i was starting my car, it was like he didn't have enough power. i was taking like 15-20 seconds before he started and he was making that unhealthy noise / cracking loud noise / dashboard flickering / ...

What else could this be??? (starter and battery are brand new, 1 week in car)
Old 03-31-2017, 03:13 AM
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You seem to have an excessive amperage draw when hot starting. Something is pulling those amps. Or your connections to the battery, starter, and frame are very dirty. Bad new starter or bad new battery are unlikely but still possible. The new battery is a regular battery, not something low powered like an Optima I hope. My Duralast battery is rated at 625 cold cranking amps and the car starts in one second. Guys obsessed with weight start their cars with what looks like motorcycle or lawn tractor batteries.

Ya need an extremely robust ammeter to check the electrical draw but I think that's the next step if all else is good.

-- Chuck


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