new starter won't start ?
03-31-2017, 02:02 PM
#21
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You seem to have an excessive amperage draw when hot starting. Something is pulling those amps. Or your connections to the battery, starter, and frame are very dirty. Bad new starter or bad new battery are unlikely but still possible. The new battery is a regular battery, not something low powered like an Optima I hope. My Duralast battery is rated at 625 cold cranking amps and the car starts in one second. Guys obsessed with weight start their cars with what looks like motorcycle or lawn tractor batteries.
Ya need an extremely robust ammeter to check the electrical draw but I think that's the next step if all else is good.
-- Chuck
Ya need an extremely robust ammeter to check the electrical draw but I think that's the next step if all else is good.
-- Chuck
Yesterday i've cleaned my groundcable from negative to frame. Starter i replaced so brand new (not dirty). I've checked today the cable from alternator and he is clean as well.
Battery is a yuasa 3000 (400CCA)
So I should look for some Ampere leaks? But when I check it (parasitic test) i don't have leaks when he is not running?
04-01-2017, 06:51 AM
#22
Cold cranking amps are well below those available in my battery. Looking at the Yuasa 3000 battery data page I note there are probably 20 batteries in the 3000 series including those with many more CCA. Not sure which actually fit our cars. Nor what CCA are required. More is usually better in this application.
Excessive voltage drop under load indicates a weak battery. New, electrically undersized battery is by definition weaker. I recall anything under 9.6vDC is bad. Certainly anything under 9v under load is unlikely to start the car. A multimeter can test this easily. That's all those load meters are is a voltmeter with a large resistance load to simulate the starter.
HTH,
-- Chuck
Excessive voltage drop under load indicates a weak battery. New, electrically undersized battery is by definition weaker. I recall anything under 9.6vDC is bad. Certainly anything under 9v under load is unlikely to start the car. A multimeter can test this easily. That's all those load meters are is a voltmeter with a large resistance load to simulate the starter.
HTH,
-- Chuck
04-03-2017, 10:05 AM
#23
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Cold cranking amps are well below those available in my battery. Looking at the Yuasa 3000 battery data page I note there are probably 20 batteries in the 3000 series including those with many more CCA. Not sure which actually fit our cars. Nor what CCA are required. More is usually better in this application.
Excessive voltage drop under load indicates a weak battery. New, electrically undersized battery is by definition weaker. I recall anything under 9.6vDC is bad. Certainly anything under 9v under load is unlikely to start the car. A multimeter can test this easily. That's all those load meters are is a voltmeter with a large resistance load to simulate the starter.
HTH,
-- Chuck
Excessive voltage drop under load indicates a weak battery. New, electrically undersized battery is by definition weaker. I recall anything under 9.6vDC is bad. Certainly anything under 9v under load is unlikely to start the car. A multimeter can test this easily. That's all those load meters are is a voltmeter with a large resistance load to simulate the starter.
HTH,
-- Chuck
Maybe dirty cables or bad connection? I also felt my negative cable from battery to vehicle was hot (also negative terminal of battery was feeling hot after riding)
04-03-2017, 11:22 AM
#24
Can you post a recording of the cracking/loud sound?
Do you have 12.0 volts at the battery during the long time it takes to start when you get the cracking/loud sound?
Can you measure the voltage right at the starter? 12 volts is perfect, if it's all getting to the starter.
Do you have 12.0 volts at the battery during the long time it takes to start when you get the cracking/loud sound?
Can you measure the voltage right at the starter? 12 volts is perfect, if it's all getting to the starter.
04-03-2017, 04:01 PM
#25
A 12v car battery measuring 12v at rest is 50% discharged. 12v under starter load should be more than enough.
Does the car have the OEM size battery cables? Thin cables have higher resistance and can get hot. We already know it has an undersized battery.
-- Chuck
Does the car have the OEM size battery cables? Thin cables have higher resistance and can get hot. We already know it has an undersized battery.
-- Chuck
04-04-2017, 03:15 AM
#26
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Can you post a recording of the cracking/loud sound?
Do you have 12.0 volts at the battery during the long time it takes to start when you get the cracking/loud sound?
Can you measure the voltage right at the starter? 12 volts is perfect, if it's all getting to the starter.
Do you have 12.0 volts at the battery during the long time it takes to start when you get the cracking/loud sound?
Can you measure the voltage right at the starter? 12 volts is perfect, if it's all getting to the starter.
I don't have a record of this because it just happens sometimes. 2/10 times starting badly.
04-04-2017, 03:21 AM
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I think it's the OEM size battery cables? How does it look like? I've got a very short one with black rubber around it for the negative pool and positive pool is covered into tubes. you got a pic?
04-04-2017, 11:15 AM
#29
s2kBelg: can you describe more fully what is happening during the 10-15 seconds before it starts, when you get the loud/cracking sounds? Is the engine turning over fast enough that you think it should get going? Or is the engine turning over slowly or not at all, until finally it does turn over and starts right up?
Assuming your starter motor is working correctly, it is the job of the solenoid to push the pinion gear into the ring gear on the flywheel, and only after this is done will the starter begin spinning at full speed. The solenoid gets its power through your ignition switch or a relay controlled by the ignition switch (I don't have the wiring diagram handy so I'm not positive which it is), NOT through the fat cable that comes straight from the battery. Therefore, you might have a problem with this solenoid wiring, which could explain why your dash lights blink (they might be fed by the same circuit).
Either that, or your starter is defective, and is spinning its motor before the pinion gear has fully engaged the ring gear, so the gears are grinding/hitting against each other.
That's my guess.
Assuming your starter motor is working correctly, it is the job of the solenoid to push the pinion gear into the ring gear on the flywheel, and only after this is done will the starter begin spinning at full speed. The solenoid gets its power through your ignition switch or a relay controlled by the ignition switch (I don't have the wiring diagram handy so I'm not positive which it is), NOT through the fat cable that comes straight from the battery. Therefore, you might have a problem with this solenoid wiring, which could explain why your dash lights blink (they might be fed by the same circuit).
Either that, or your starter is defective, and is spinning its motor before the pinion gear has fully engaged the ring gear, so the gears are grinding/hitting against each other.
That's my guess.
04-04-2017, 11:31 AM
#30
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