Notchy shifting
 

Hey guys lately my shifter has been feeling pretty notchy and not as smooth as before. I was wondering what you guys have done to fix this problem. I changed my transmission fluid awhile back maybe 15k+ miles ago or so, do you think changing it again will fix it? I was thinking about changing the clutch fluid as well and maybe regreasing the shifter. Any thoughts?

I read some where that you change trams fluid every 15k miles

Clutch fluid is your best bet.

Trans is fine with 15k on the fluid.

Im psycho OCD with fluids: trans, diff and engine get a flui dchange every 3500. Its an easy hour in the garage and good as new!


My third is still alittle notchy and reverse is a bitch to get into on cold mornings, its an ap2 trans btw

3500 is seriously over doing it for the dif and trans. The fluids have barely been used.

If you are OCD, change your clutch fluid and get real results you can feel.

Definitely re-grease the shifter; you'll feel a noticeable difference.

I did that bout a year ago, installed all new parts down there and really filled it up with the high temp urea grease.


I agree Bill, I was thinking of backing down to 10-15 for the trans. I have been frantic lately to get rid of the difficult reverse and notchy 2-3 shift

If your a Ap1 then try to regrease the shifters u-joint with high temp grease. Plus do a tranny service with redline mtl. That should do the trick. ps if you did do a tranny service also do the diff its just good habit because they're both have moving components.

Billman - you mentioned this in another thread. To confirm, the clutch doesn't need bled, but just remover all fluid from reservoir and replace with new? If so, how does the fresh fluid actually get in?

I'm more familiar with brake system bleeding and getting the old fluid out, so I don't understand how just changing the clutch reservoir fluid would help.

Every time you press the clutch, it pushes new fluid in.

The biggest exchange is due to relasing the clutch. with every release, old brake fluid shoots up in to the master. All contaminants settle in that pocket in the master res.

I say dont flush and bleed, number one its very difficult to bleed and almost every person that tries to do the job cannot get the air out and winds up with gear grinds.

Secondly, the fluid in the slave and lines is clean. I've test bleed many s2ks. Black fluid in the master, clean fluid in the slave. All yoiu need to deal with is the res.