S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

OEM plus engine formula

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Old 07-23-2018, 10:01 PM
  #21  

 
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Originally Posted by unclebobby
As a mechanic of 20 yrs, there's a lot of humor in hearing that you'd rather have a 15yr old Euro vehicle over something that pretty much never breaks down. On your commute too and from work today, count how many mid 90's euros you see on the road vs. even older honda's. It's a laughable result.
This man knows what he's talkin' bout.
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S2GARAGENYC (07-24-2018)
Old 07-24-2018, 06:20 AM
  #22  

 
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getting back on track: intake, high quality header only, and nice exhaust setup will produce some good results. A lightweight flywheel will make you smile too. Don't waste time with a HFC go straight to a test pipe with simulator spacer. :Lastly, the best bang for the buck no doubt is going to be throwing a tune at the aforementioned mods.

Old 07-24-2018, 06:36 AM
  #23  

 
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Originally Posted by Euro_Ricer
We can debate the semantics of this all day long but I got 280K miles from my old E class and it was flawless with only standard maintenance. For me it's about having something with a quality chassis and mechanical engineering goodness that doesn't sound like the middle of a hurricane around a tin can when you're driving down the highway. My current BMW 5 series is quieter with the sunroof open that my best friends Lexus ES350h with his sunroof closed. Also, neither of these were ever meant to be sports cars but the driving dynamics isn't even in the same ballpark. Also - I get better acceleration and hwy MPG's with my turbo 4 than his hybrid.

On a different note - there is something to be said about a honda standing up to neglect better than a euro but we could debate all day long the reliability and longevity of a well maintained european staple like a 5 series, 3 series or E class. I'm not talking some weird experimental V12 because I can raise you the equivalent fail of some japanese junk too.)
Semantics? I think there is plenty of statistical data that disagrees with you.

Good luck on your 300 hp goal!
Old 07-24-2018, 07:46 AM
  #24  

 
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Originally Posted by unclebobby
getting back on track: intake, high quality header only, and nice exhaust setup will produce some good results. A lightweight flywheel will make you smile too. Don't waste time with a HFC go straight to a test pipe with simulator spacer. :Lastly, the best bang for the buck no doubt is going to be throwing a tune at the aforementioned mods.
I have those things on my car.

I'm sure without a tune that I have not gained a single horsepower.

(That said, I have an HFC because breathing > 1 whp gained from a test pipe)
Old 07-24-2018, 09:18 AM
  #25  

 
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that's relative to the quality of the parts. My car is without a doubt quicker with my bolt-on mods, I forgot to mention that I also have a larger throttle with port matched manifold. And again just speaking personally, I spent top dollar for everything on my car. A junk2 header will lose horsepower compared to an OEM where my custom made to order Origin Fab header with massive runners made gains everywhere in the powerband.
Old 07-24-2018, 09:43 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by unclebobby
that's relative to the quality of the parts. My car is without a doubt quicker with my bolt-on mods, I forgot to mention that I also have a larger throttle with port matched manifold. And again just speaking personally, I spent top dollar for everything on my car. A junk2 header will lose horsepower compared to an OEM where my custom made to order Origin Fab header with massive runners made gains everywhere in the powerband.
Yeah - reading here for a short period of time has been an eye opener.... and I also spoke to LHT at the recommendation of a friend with a kit installed by them....

Looks like my plan as of now....

1. factory airbox gut with K&N filter
2. Spoon airbox snorkel
3. SPAL radiator with electric fans
4. Throttle Body
5. Intake Manifold
6. Toda (probably) headers
7. Test pipe
8. Titanium 2.5 inch single outlet exhaust
9. Clutch + flywheel
10. Coilovers (KWv2
11. Sway bars
12. BBK that fits in OEM wheels.
13. Factory lip, duck and winglets
14. Tune (drop Vtec)
15. Lower seat rails
no hurry:
16. Lightweight seats
17. Bushings
18. Diff mount

I'll probably drive the car like this for a year and then decide if forced induction is something I want to do. It's kind of like my 911.... the new boosted models are for sure faster and much more tunable but the balance and experience is ridiculously good. I have no desire to make it faster when I'm behind the wheel. It's also way more fun than any TURBO model - but also way "slower" although at Teffen last year with ~1000 Porsches gathered, my car was faster on the drives than the TURBO's that were there. Beauty of NA power delivery. A friend has an AP1 and in the right gear(at the right RPMs) the S2000 is a rocket. I'm only telling this tale to better describe what I'm chasing. 300 HP NA is a pipe dream from what I understand and just doesn't make sense with easy boosted power without loosing the NA characteristics - I had a Rotrex C38 on an S52 Z3m years ago and it was great, I'm not a fan of turbos on this type of car. I The 911 is a fantastic car but one thing you'll never achieve in a modern 911 is the weight of an S2000 and the experience associated with that. Even last year I followed a friend with an AP2 to watch the solar eclipse wondering who was enjoying the drive more and concluded a slight advantage of fun to the S2K via the manual and gearing. Gearing is another flaw on the 911 (regardless of transmission) since the gearing is so long. Also, frankly, the 6 speed in the S is better than the 7 speed manual in the Porsche. the PDK is amazing "for a auto/dual clutch" and arguably the best in the business at any price point. The Cayman/Boxster 6 speed is better but the ridiculously long gearing is still there. Even the GT4 would be twice the car with more appropriate gearing - as in not doing 85mph in 2nd! None of these attributes can be addressed with aftermarket. Add that to being a perpetual tinkerer and the cost/value of an S2000 is AMAZING. Doing mods is something I enjoy and an therapeutic escape from life for me.

Don't want to beat this thread/horse to death but even the comments that challenged my ideas were helpful as I did research them and checked out what was said.
Old 07-24-2018, 12:07 PM
  #27  

 
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Originally Posted by unclebobby
that's relative to the quality of the parts. My car is without a doubt quicker with my bolt-on mods, I forgot to mention that I also have a larger throttle with port matched manifold. And again just speaking personally, I spent top dollar for everything on my car. A junk2 header will lose horsepower compared to an OEM where my custom made to order Origin Fab header with massive runners made gains everywhere in the powerband.
K&N FIPK > Mugen > Mugen

Even a great header is gaining 5-10 whp.

That's not enough to actually feel.
Old 07-24-2018, 02:12 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by TsukubaCody
K&N FIPK > Mugen > Mugen

Even a great header is gaining 5-10 whp.

That's not enough to actually feel.
depends where you're getting that 10hp along the power band.
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S2GARAGENYC (07-25-2018)
Old 07-24-2018, 10:15 PM
  #29  

 
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Originally Posted by ssbfgc

Semantics? I think there is plenty of statistical data that disagrees with you.

Good luck on your 300 hp goal!
Another man who knows what he's talkin' bout.
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S2GARAGENYC (07-25-2018)
Old 07-24-2018, 10:23 PM
  #30  

 
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Originally Posted by Euro_Ricer
Yeah - reading here for a short period of time has been an eye opener.... and I also spoke to LHT at the recommendation of a friend with a kit installed by them....

Looks like my plan as of now....

1. factory airbox gut with K&N filter
2. Spoon airbox snorkel
3. SPAL radiator with electric fans
4. Throttle Body
5. Intake Manifold
6. Toda (probably) headers
7. Test pipe
8. Titanium 2.5 inch single outlet exhaust
9. Clutch + flywheel
10. Coilovers (KWv2
11. Sway bars
12. BBK that fits in OEM wheels.
13. Factory lip, duck and winglets
14. Tune (drop Vtec)
15. Lower seat rails
no hurry:
16. Lightweight seats
17. Bushings
18. Diff mount

I'll probably drive the car like this for a year and then decide if forced induction is something I want to do. It's kind of like my 911.... the new boosted models are for sure faster and much more tunable but the balance and experience is ridiculously good. I have no desire to make it faster when I'm behind the wheel. It's also way more fun than any TURBO model - but also way "slower" although at Teffen last year with ~1000 Porsches gathered, my car was faster on the drives than the TURBO's that were there. Beauty of NA power delivery. A friend has an AP1 and in the right gear(at the right RPMs) the S2000 is a rocket. I'm only telling this tale to better describe what I'm chasing. 300 HP NA is a pipe dream from what I understand and just doesn't make sense with easy boosted power without loosing the NA characteristics - I had a Rotrex C38 on an S52 Z3m years ago and it was great, I'm not a fan of turbos on this type of car. I The 911 is a fantastic car but one thing you'll never achieve in a modern 911 is the weight of an S2000 and the experience associated with that. Even last year I followed a friend with an AP2 to watch the solar eclipse wondering who was enjoying the drive more and concluded a slight advantage of fun to the S2K via the manual and gearing. Gearing is another flaw on the 911 (regardless of transmission) since the gearing is so long. Also, frankly, the 6 speed in the S is better than the 7 speed manual in the Porsche. the PDK is amazing "for a auto/dual clutch" and arguably the best in the business at any price point. The Cayman/Boxster 6 speed is better but the ridiculously long gearing is still there. Even the GT4 would be twice the car with more appropriate gearing - as in not doing 85mph in 2nd! None of these attributes can be addressed with aftermarket. Add that to being a perpetual tinkerer and the cost/value of an S2000 is AMAZING. Doing mods is something I enjoy and an therapeutic escape from life for me.

Don't want to beat this thread/horse to death but even the comments that challenged my ideas were helpful as I did research them and checked out what was said.
those mods you listed are going to produce results but after all is said and done, if you decide to go boost which will get you 300HP without breaking a sweat, just go centrifugal supercharger. SC is the best compliment for the S2K F20 or 22 engines when it comes to forced induction devices. Turbo is a whole other animal and won't retain the NA purity of the stock S2K. You can still take advantage of the aggressive gearing of a stock S2K with a blower upfront without even changing out the final drive. VTEC kicks harder and stronger too. The list of SC pros goes on. If you were looking for 600HP then I'd recommend a turbo but since you aren't just keep it simple(r) and go SC
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