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I changed engine oil a few weeks ago and just noticed a leak yesterday. I lifted car and the drain bolt and under side of pan where it says "engine oil" were oil wet. I wiped away all oil from that area. There was no oil around filter.
So I re-torqued @ 29ft-lbs just to be sure. Then I put some newspaper underneath and waited 24 hours. Picture shows the stain under the drain bolt after 24 hours.
So what's different from the norm is that I used the skunk2 magnetic drain bolt. See 2nd pic. As you can see, I installed the long magnet bolt as shown on the web page and not the other which is for the tranny. Also, the copper washers in the pic came with the skunk2 kit, but I used the OEM washer (94109-14000).
So I have three possible theories, but maybe someone has others:
1. I should have used the copper washer that came with the skunk2 kit.
2. My torque wrench is not calibrated and so the bolt has not been tightened enough, although I used the same torque wrench on my tranny and diff that I did at the same time and there is no leak from those bolts.
3. The skunk2 bolt is just poor quality and I should just go back to OEM.
Any thoughts from the community? For #2, I'm thinking of buying another torque wrench to compare with. Thanks.
Originally Posted by Shadow_S2K,Apr 14 2010, 10:17 PM
Are there any cracks around the drain bolt area? I think using a torque wrench might be a bit over kill, and you do run the risk of over torquing.
I'll check if I can, but I didn't notice any cracks so I'll have to get back to you on that. Strange you would say a torque wrench is overkill as I think I would get slammed by dozens here if I had said I tightened with just a box wrench. I learned my lesson long ago when I over tightened a bolt on my '81 civic while changing the coolant thermostat .
Its just that the oil pan is pretty delicate, and prone to easily strip, crack when over tightened and the recent ones that I read about all have used a torque wrench...
Originally Posted by Shadow_S2K,Apr 14 2010, 10:37 PM
Its just that the oil pan is pretty delicate, and prone to easily strip, crack when over tightened and the recent ones that I read about all have used a torque wrench...
Ain't dat a beyatch! You try to do the right thing....
I guess I'll find out one way or another if I replace with the OEM bolt. Anyway, when I re-checked with my torque wrench last night I definitely didn't have to exert much pressure to get to the 29ft-lbs, it felt just like I would expect.
try the copper washer next, you can pull the plug, exchange washers and insert the plug without losing all of your oil if you do it quickly. The copper washer is softer and will fit itself better if there is any warpage in the mating parts.
I run a generic magnetic bolt with a Honda aluminum washer snugged down by hand and it doesn't leak.
There area around the bolt threads is susceptible to cracking in some situations, I'd check the underside of the threaded area and see if you notice any cracking as a precaution.
While I use a torque wrench on every bolt on the vehicle I don't torque down the oil drain bolt for fear of cracking the pan, I snug that one down by hand all the time. You are correct in that the proper way is to torque it to spec, but I am always worried about damaging that one with too much torque.
you can pull the plug, exchange washers and insert the plug without losing all of your oil if you do it quickly.
Thanks for the tip, I would have let all the oil drain completely. Because I didn't think I could change the washer quick enough, I decided to just go back to the OEM plug. I did the swap and lost maybe a 1/4 quart...missed the pan .
I think using a torque wrench might be a bit over kill
I don't torque down the oil drain bolt for fear of cracking the pan, I snug that one down by hand all the time.
I did not use a torque wrench this time. I hand tightened then gave a slight bit of pressure with a wrench...just enough move the bolt (1 nanometer ) but I'd say I used less than the recommended torque.
I'll wait and see if I still have a leak . I might give the Skunk2 bolt another try with the copper washer at the next oil change. Here are some pics. I couldn't spot a crack, but of course I couldn't see the threads as I did the bolt swap so I don't have a visual on them.
Use aluminum washer for aluminum sumps, I´ve had customer cars where copper washers cause leaks (after a few years).
Copper and aluminum is a bad combo and the copper will eat away pieces of the aluminum surface with time.
04-14-2010, 10:05 PM
oil leak - skunk2 magnetic drain bolt
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) but I'd say I used less than the recommended torque.
. I might give the Skunk2 bolt another try with the copper washer at the next oil change. Here are some pics. I couldn't spot a crack, but of course I couldn't see the threads as I did the bolt swap so I don't have a visual on them. 
