oil pressure gauge question
#1
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oil pressure gauge question
Im am trying to install a autometer electric oil pressure gauge, I have read on the forums that I must get a adapter from Greddy, aside from that what else is needed to install the sender unit? Any suggestions would be appreciated. I would like to know how anyone else installed theirs.
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You can use a sandwich adapter if you want but you can also remove the factory pressure sensor and install a tee fitting, reinstalling the oem sensor on one side and the aftermarket on the other. I used a Greddy sandwich adapter (3 years) until I went FI. It worked very well. I routed the wiring for the sender up and under the coilpack cover where the wiring for the VTEC solenoid exits. Besides your sandwich adapter or Tee, you will need some teflon tape to seal the sender from leaking around the threads.
You will obviously have to get the wires from the sender through the firewall. Either you can drill and hole and install a grommet or puncture a factory one and slip the wires through beside one of the factory harnesses. Whichever you do, I recommend doing it on the drivers side.
There have been lots of threads on wiring aftermarket goodies. You can search and get a lot of good info. This pic (props to whoever made it) shows good places to get 12v+ power. When you tap for power, be sure to use an inline fuse as close to the connection as possible to protect your car from a fire. A good ground point is in the drivers kickpanel. There is a factory grounding point there or you make your own.
Lastly, you need a place to put the gauge. Mounting rings that place the gauge on top of the dash or on the A-pillar are the easiest. Cutting holes in the passenger side dash is another option (no good IMO because its irreversable without replacing the entire dash). Pillar pods that go over the drivers A-pillar cover are IMO the best. Your gauges can be read easily/quickly and the guages don't look temporary or rigged up. Autometer and SOS make two gauge pods that fit quite well. You can also do custom but that is limited to your fabrication skill.
I am using the Autometer pod, a ring mount on the dash (until I make a 3 pod pillar mount), and a custom location where the dash audio controls used to be.
You will obviously have to get the wires from the sender through the firewall. Either you can drill and hole and install a grommet or puncture a factory one and slip the wires through beside one of the factory harnesses. Whichever you do, I recommend doing it on the drivers side.
There have been lots of threads on wiring aftermarket goodies. You can search and get a lot of good info. This pic (props to whoever made it) shows good places to get 12v+ power. When you tap for power, be sure to use an inline fuse as close to the connection as possible to protect your car from a fire. A good ground point is in the drivers kickpanel. There is a factory grounding point there or you make your own.
Lastly, you need a place to put the gauge. Mounting rings that place the gauge on top of the dash or on the A-pillar are the easiest. Cutting holes in the passenger side dash is another option (no good IMO because its irreversable without replacing the entire dash). Pillar pods that go over the drivers A-pillar cover are IMO the best. Your gauges can be read easily/quickly and the guages don't look temporary or rigged up. Autometer and SOS make two gauge pods that fit quite well. You can also do custom but that is limited to your fabrication skill.
I am using the Autometer pod, a ring mount on the dash (until I make a 3 pod pillar mount), and a custom location where the dash audio controls used to be.
#3
Instead of getting a Greddy adapter, another way would be to pick up a set of 1/8" 28 BSP adapters - both male and female - from a Napa dealer. I think the other side is an AN fitting (4AN?). Also pick up a short stainless braided hydraulic line and a hydraulic 1/8" NPT tee.
Remove your stock oil pressure switch (which has an 1/8" BSP thread) and screw in the male 1/8" BSP adapter. attach the braided hydraulic line to this, then attach the tee to the other end. On one side, attach the female 1/8" BSP adapter, then attach the stock oil pressure sender to it. On the other side of the tee, attach your new oil pressure sender.
This setup will prevent the weight of the pressure sender and pressure switch from fatiguing the tee and fitting. If you don't put the braided hose in place, you will eventually have a cracked fitting and lose oil. The braided hose takes the weight of the pressure switch and sender away from the vibrations of the engine block.
Keep in mind that all oil presssure switches have 1/8" NPT threads, not 1/8" BSP threads. If you try to screw an Autometer oil pressure switch directly into the block, you will crack the block in that area. There are several threads talking about that problem.
I have this setup using a Cyberdyne digital oil pressure gauge. I installed it in 2003, and after over 150,000 miles using it I have had no leaks.
Remove your stock oil pressure switch (which has an 1/8" BSP thread) and screw in the male 1/8" BSP adapter. attach the braided hydraulic line to this, then attach the tee to the other end. On one side, attach the female 1/8" BSP adapter, then attach the stock oil pressure sender to it. On the other side of the tee, attach your new oil pressure sender.
This setup will prevent the weight of the pressure sender and pressure switch from fatiguing the tee and fitting. If you don't put the braided hose in place, you will eventually have a cracked fitting and lose oil. The braided hose takes the weight of the pressure switch and sender away from the vibrations of the engine block.
Keep in mind that all oil presssure switches have 1/8" NPT threads, not 1/8" BSP threads. If you try to screw an Autometer oil pressure switch directly into the block, you will crack the block in that area. There are several threads talking about that problem.
I have this setup using a Cyberdyne digital oil pressure gauge. I installed it in 2003, and after over 150,000 miles using it I have had no leaks.
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i got a Blox adapter, fit great however when i started up to check for any leaks it leaked terribly. I was thinking a larger second o ring to seal the top. The adapter has groves to fit a oil filter but it leaked. I took off the block adapter and put the oil filter back on like normal. Any ideas?
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i got a Blox adapter, fit great however when i started up to check for any leaks it leaked terribly from the oil filter. I was thinking a larger second o ring to seal the top. The adapter has groves to fit a oil filter but it leaked. I took off the block adapter and put the oil filter back on like normal. Any ideas?
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