Paging Marcucci and gernby need your advise.
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Paging Marcucci and gernby need your advise.
Hey guys I know there has been alot of discussion on the use of an aftermarket Thermostat, fan switch, and radiator cap. Search is down so could you all briefly describe what benefits if any and downfalls of using these three all together and if in your opinion, are they worth it to buy.
#2
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The short answer:
Thermostat opens at a lower temp, meaning it opens sooner and is intended to keep the engine cooler. Since it opens sooner the fan switch turns on cooler to help regulate the system better (I'd recommend both, not just the tstat).
The long answer is that gains are debatable; when in extreme heat (like TX) I found the fans to stay on most of the time... telling me that the rad is overworked. Maybe it's on the edge, and really keeps the car that cool... maybe not. I didn't actually do any coolant temp testing.
There is also the issue of fuel enrichment. People with OBD2 tools have mentioned that the ECU starts adding fuel as low as 180 degrees. This means an already rich-running car will run MORE rich. A VAFC would remedy this easily, though.
My personal opinion is that you ideally need a bigger rad to really do this mod right and a VAFC to get the most gains. The t-stat and switch made the car feel like it runs better, but I can tell you it definitely feels peppier now that I'm back to stock parts.
Thermostat opens at a lower temp, meaning it opens sooner and is intended to keep the engine cooler. Since it opens sooner the fan switch turns on cooler to help regulate the system better (I'd recommend both, not just the tstat).
The long answer is that gains are debatable; when in extreme heat (like TX) I found the fans to stay on most of the time... telling me that the rad is overworked. Maybe it's on the edge, and really keeps the car that cool... maybe not. I didn't actually do any coolant temp testing.
There is also the issue of fuel enrichment. People with OBD2 tools have mentioned that the ECU starts adding fuel as low as 180 degrees. This means an already rich-running car will run MORE rich. A VAFC would remedy this easily, though.
My personal opinion is that you ideally need a bigger rad to really do this mod right and a VAFC to get the most gains. The t-stat and switch made the car feel like it runs better, but I can tell you it definitely feels peppier now that I'm back to stock parts.
#3
Originally posted by marcucci
....
My personal opinion is that you ideally need a bigger rad to really do this mod right ....
....
My personal opinion is that you ideally need a bigger rad to really do this mod right ....
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Originally posted by marcucci
My personal opinion is that you ideally need a bigger rad to really do this mod right and a VAFC to get the most gains. The t-stat and switch made the car feel like it runs better, but I can tell you it definitely feels peppier now that I'm back to stock parts.
My personal opinion is that you ideally need a bigger rad to really do this mod right and a VAFC to get the most gains. The t-stat and switch made the car feel like it runs better, but I can tell you it definitely feels peppier now that I'm back to stock parts.
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by cdelena
[B]
People with temperature gauges have come to the same conclusion.. at least when running on the track. Under heavy running the coolant temp stays around 200F so either thermostat (stock or aftermarket) stays wide open, and fans run.
[B]
People with temperature gauges have come to the same conclusion.. at least when running on the track. Under heavy running the coolant temp stays around 200F so either thermostat (stock or aftermarket) stays wide open, and fans run.
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I think the theory is that in marginal conditions, the aftermarket parts (thermostat and thermoswitch) will kick in earlier, keeping the ECU from dialing back performance a little longer. In fully hot conditions, the stock parts would have tripped anyway, so the only difference would be in starting cooling a bit earlier. In cold conditions, the aftermarket parts could hurt if the engine doesn't get up to optimum temperature.
As for the radiator cap, yes, if it's not hot enough to trip the stock cap, the aftermarket one isn't making a difference.
As for the radiator cap, yes, if it's not hot enough to trip the stock cap, the aftermarket one isn't making a difference.
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Originally posted by cdelena
When the pressure is reached it does not blow but simply bleeds off into the expansion tank relieving the pressure. If it overflows the tank it will be lower on coolant when cool. My car (with the stock cap) has been hot enough to fill the tank.. I don't think it is unusual but you usually don't see it unless you look at the right time.
When the pressure is reached it does not blow but simply bleeds off into the expansion tank relieving the pressure. If it overflows the tank it will be lower on coolant when cool. My car (with the stock cap) has been hot enough to fill the tank.. I don't think it is unusual but you usually don't see it unless you look at the right time.
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