Post your Alignment
Anyone tried the UK specs on a MY2002 car? What was the result?
My 02 got wrecked in an accident and I had the body shop use the UK specs. Assuming that they fixed it right, the car drivers very poorly - not stable on highways, too much bump steer and very difficult to steer correctly over crown/bumps. I know there could be any number of things wrong with how they fixed the car but I just want to make sure the UK specs are not the culprit.
My 02 got wrecked in an accident and I had the body shop use the UK specs. Assuming that they fixed it right, the car drivers very poorly - not stable on highways, too much bump steer and very difficult to steer correctly over crown/bumps. I know there could be any number of things wrong with how they fixed the car but I just want to make sure the UK specs are not the culprit.
Initially, I had the car changed to :
1.5 deg camber
6.0 deg caster
1/16th toe in
Rear:
2.0 deg camber
6.0 deg caster
1/32nd toe in
The car handle great! I only had it on the small track at Willow (streets of willow) and on the street it handled admirably. On a small track, the slides were very predictable and super easy to control.
I then put on coilovers, lowered 1.5 inches and put on Toyos.
Alignment was changed to:
1.5 deg camber
6.0
1/6 toe in
rear:
2.25 camber
6.0
1/4 toe in
That was the setting that I ran at Sears Point. The track was much higher speed and I changed a lot more than just the alignment. The car was waaaay oversteery. Most of it was from the shocks, so it's hard to evaluate the alignment alone.
1.5 deg camber
6.0 deg caster
1/16th toe in
Rear:
2.0 deg camber
6.0 deg caster
1/32nd toe in
The car handle great! I only had it on the small track at Willow (streets of willow) and on the street it handled admirably. On a small track, the slides were very predictable and super easy to control.
I then put on coilovers, lowered 1.5 inches and put on Toyos.
Alignment was changed to:
1.5 deg camber
6.0
1/6 toe in
rear:
2.25 camber
6.0
1/4 toe in
That was the setting that I ran at Sears Point. The track was much higher speed and I changed a lot more than just the alignment. The car was waaaay oversteery. Most of it was from the shocks, so it's hard to evaluate the alignment alone.
Just did my alignment today (with fresh 255/40-17 rears).
Here's the specs:
Front:
Camber: -1.5
Caster: +7.2
Toe: 0
Rear:
Camber: -2.1
Toe: +.06
As far as I can tell in my 10 mile drive back to work from Custom Alignment in Mountain View the car is very snappy in turn in and oversteers a bit more--not sure if this is the alignment or the tires.
I took in Shatten's recommended specs and this is what I came out with. The Caster is a bit higher than I asked for....anyone know how will this affect handling?
Here's the specs:
Front:
Camber: -1.5
Caster: +7.2
Toe: 0
Rear:
Camber: -2.1
Toe: +.06
As far as I can tell in my 10 mile drive back to work from Custom Alignment in Mountain View the car is very snappy in turn in and oversteers a bit more--not sure if this is the alignment or the tires.
I took in Shatten's recommended specs and this is what I came out with. The Caster is a bit higher than I asked for....anyone know how will this affect handling?
I coud be wrong in how to read your specs, but you appear to have toe OUT in the rear.
If that is the case under hard braking the suspension bushings in the rear will compress further to give even more toe out and you will get uncontrollable snap over steer.
I too did this on the advise of the alignment guy and it really destroyed my at the limit handling. On one course I only had one corner I could predict this and even begin to catch it or control it. I did this on 2 cars at the same time and both exhibited the exact same problems which totally disappeared when I had it realigned the next week and put a small amount of toe in.
I went with a small amount of toe in and guessed that it would give me 0 toe under braking and the car has been predictable every since.
I have been running:
Front
Camber-1.9
Caster 6ish (I can't get anymore)
Toe .08 OUT (improves turn in)
Rear
Camber -1.9 to -2
Toe .03 IN
It handles GREAT, there is only one problem. That is just enough negative camber to allow the inside of my tires to wear slightly more than the center. There is a perfectly good solution to that tho - more track time!!
I have just changed to a 225/255 x17 combo with less offset for a slightly wider track and I am wondering if that would mean I would need a lessening of camber due to the longer length of the "arm" now?
If that is the case under hard braking the suspension bushings in the rear will compress further to give even more toe out and you will get uncontrollable snap over steer.
I too did this on the advise of the alignment guy and it really destroyed my at the limit handling. On one course I only had one corner I could predict this and even begin to catch it or control it. I did this on 2 cars at the same time and both exhibited the exact same problems which totally disappeared when I had it realigned the next week and put a small amount of toe in.
I went with a small amount of toe in and guessed that it would give me 0 toe under braking and the car has been predictable every since.
I have been running:
Front
Camber-1.9
Caster 6ish (I can't get anymore)
Toe .08 OUT (improves turn in)
Rear
Camber -1.9 to -2
Toe .03 IN
It handles GREAT, there is only one problem. That is just enough negative camber to allow the inside of my tires to wear slightly more than the center. There is a perfectly good solution to that tho - more track time!!
I have just changed to a 225/255 x17 combo with less offset for a slightly wider track and I am wondering if that would mean I would need a lessening of camber due to the longer length of the "arm" now?



