Price for CV bucket replacement?
 

So I've been getting vibrations upon heavy acceleration and from what I've researched it seems the driver side CV bucket has worn out; my car is lowered.

I don't have have the tools and don't want to spend days trying to do this myself and would rather pay someone to do it. Is there a ball park price for the labor and cost of the CV bucket replacement so I can get a sense I'm not getting overcharged? Would I only replace the driver side? And does anyone know any reputable shops in the Charleston SC area that I can trust?

thanks in advance.

swap them left to right.. problem solved! And no you cant just buy new buckets on their own

It will be expensive either way, check out Autometrics, they're a Porsche shop mainly but have done alignments for me. You're better off swapping them yourself, but if you have the money to spend, hit them up...good luck.

I believe ballade sells buckets for the OEM S2000 axles.

Id expect to pay $200-$400 for cup swap. I do work on the side and charge $200 for cup swap + full reboot. I prefer to only use the OEM Honda boot kits. The boot kit is $25~ per boot from AFHKParts.com and includes everything required to complete the job.

Great job spreading misinformation. You CAN buy them alone. After speaking with PuddyDaddy, he actually told me that there is the option to rebuild them by buying the buckets through Honda, but it is quite expensive. He rebuilds axles as well last time we spoke.

Honda part # 42320-S2A-310 (Inboard joint)

Thanks guys.

I actually found that part online before making the thread.

https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuin...0-s2a-310.html

But it seems swapping the buckets will be just as good of choice? I read some old s2ki forum post saying swapping is just a short temporary fix so I thought getting new ones would be better.

Calm your tits!

Swaping them will fix his issue (cheaply and effectively)thats realy the point of my post...
where i am i cant realy buy them separately from honda so my bad.
i accidentaly gave wrong advice on the internet. Glad you were around to save the day.

Swapping them will fix the issue, but hey may wear out again.

But, won't axle spacers help to prevent this when your car is lowered?

https://www.balladesports.com/produc...eshaft-spacers

No, nothing "prevents" it from happening, the axle spacers only move where the bearings are riding against on the bucket so the spacers do similar to what swapping buckets does, they will still end up wearing out. Spacers will give you more time until you have to pony up the money for new buckets.

If I get new buckets, will I only need to replace the driver side to get rid of the vibrations?

My driver's side bucket at 145k mi was moderately pitted based on the pics I've seen, the passenger side had maybe 1/5-1/6th as much pitting as the driver's side. The previous owner didn't drive the car hard at all. Flipping them smoothed things out under power, but I did pick up some vibration on decel as you'd expect with flipping the wear surfaces. Overall it's bearable compared to what it was, and the decel vibration isn't encountered as commonly, or as violent because it's only engine braking doing it.

I plan to put another 10-20k miles on this config, then put in some axle spacers I have, and try to limit the wear from getting too bad in one spot.

This is a common thing. You cant prevent wear and tear but you can deal with it properly after the fact to get the most longevity out of your axles. The best way to do that is when you start feeling vibration, either swap them side to side, or add axle spacers, once one of those methods wear out then do the other. You have 3 different configs to employ before you need to replace anything. Each one of these methods just changes the existing wear path. I went 220k miles on my original axles employing all 3 configs before I had to toss the cups.

If going with spacers, I'd go with a two piece spacer, they are easier to install.

Absolutely! Much easier and quicker.

using a better grease like redline cv grease can prevent it. the oem grease is too thin.

i had zero wear after 100,000 miles on redline cv grease.

what grease were you using when you were employing the different methods.

i went 100,000 miles with zero wear, using redline cv grease.

Factory sealed until the last stage when I swapped the cups finally at about 170k miles. I got about 100k before I did anything, then did the spacer and got another 70 and then swapped the cups and got to 220. I don't remember what grease I used at 170k, likely just generic CV grease.

you have 220,000 miles? how much oil do you consume?

More then that.

Not much currently, im on my 5th engine :LOL: Boost being expensive is an understatement.

Swapped mine at ~170k, didn't add any grease. Car was very low from about 50k-170k. Now I'm at 248k and they're still going strong. Seems like the best and cheapest solution to me.

Do you have to be lowered to use the spacers? Or can you use the spacers to forstall the replacement of the buckets?

ROD

No you don't have to be lowered. Use anytime if needed.