robotvoice

Just did this tonight, it wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it would be. I think it took me a total of 15 minutes to do both wheels. Using a cheater bar helps a lot, I picked one up from Home Depot that's about 4 feet for pretty cheap. I don't have any 3/4 drive tools in my collection so I went to Harbor Freight and they wound up having a 3/4 drive tool set on sale that comes with a breaker bar, ratchet, a couple extensions, and a lot of sockets (including a 36mm) which turned out to be perfect for this job. I would argue that you could rename this tool set the "s2000 Rear Axle Nut TSB Tool Set".



I have pretty good upper body strength but I was still a little worried I wouldn't be able to do this job by myself. Using the cheater bar and 3/4 drive tools made this job super easy, I was pretty surprised and happy with the results. Getting the nut to move an extra 60 degrees was no problem at all.

Thanks for the write-up and info guys!!

GSteg

1/2" drive breaker bar would suffice if you have a quality one. I never had a problem tightening them with my 1/2" ratchet.

end7ess

Will this corded electric impact wrench work to loosen and tighten the axle nut? It says its good for Torque Ft./Lbs:350 ft. lbs. Im going to be doing this soon and need to decide between a breaker bar or an impact wrench

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-8-amp...2&blockType=G2

dwight

It might be enough to loosen it. It won't be enough to tighten it.

GSteg

A lot of impact guns are reverse biased so it may not have enough umph to tighten. Ive only used two electric impact guns to tighten the axle nuts, and they were both cordless.

end7ess

Ive been daily driving my car like this for months. It started handling funny a week ago. I decided it was time to fix the "bearing" did some research. When I looked for the axle nut, it was missing and the thread was sheered off. Broken. Gone! I parked it at my parents and borrowed my dads truck. My question is: how dangerous was this? There are only two shops that my S has been in: The Honda dealership and Discount Tier. The Honda dealership tightened it over half a year ago so I doubt it was them. Since then, I got new wheels with bald tiers. When I swapped the wheels, the nut was still on and good. Discount Tiers told me that I had a bad wheel bearing, but other then that my car looked great. I put it off to fix later. My theory is, one of the technicians decided to "fix" the problem by tightening the NUT, snapped it off, didnt tell anyone and here I am.

Question 1: What will I need to fix this and how much will it cost without labor (part numbers would be really helpful)
Question 2: Could this have been overtightened and then snapped off while I was driving? Is this possible, or only during tightening with a crazy shop air powered impact wrench?
Question 3: Do I have a case against Discount Tiers? Willful Negligence? Is it worth perusing it 2 months after the fact?

Jooboy

Just did this today on both sides. Driver side started clicking last week and I'm glad I ran into this thread. Thanks for the write-up. Very easy job, took me a little longer because I had to drive out to Lowe's to get a cheater bar. Sound is gone, hopefully it won't come back!

poop-dog

I have had a slight wurring sound that appears to be coming from thecdrivers side rear wheel between 60 mph and up. 2005 with 70k miles. Anyone think my bearing is going? I did get a few slight clunks from the rear lately too while turning hard.

Coccyxcat

I had a guy do this for me with some sort of air gun today... Do you think that's ok? I it was 60 deg past the original setting.

GSteg

It should be okay. I used an impact gun also.