s2k4me2day

Crispy808

After hearing clicking noises from my rear axle after starting and stopping at low speed, I performed this work and the noises are gone. I used a torque wrench which went up to 150 ft-lbs, a 36 mm socket, and a really long 3/4" drive breaker bar.

desii

is there any issues with "over torquing" the nut?

I only had a 3/8 socket and a torque wrench that went to 80 ft lbs. I used a 3/4 socket and breaker bar to get the nut off. Cleaned it, added the grease. torqued it to 80 ft lbs using the 3/8 wrench. Hand tightened as far as i could with the 3/4 breaker bar.

I then marked the nut, added my extender to the breaker bar and moved the nut about 120 degrees. took a while to get there. Took it for a drive, no noise or anything.

B serious

Yes, there are issues with broken axle stubs from people who go overboard with tightening the nut.

You're stretching the axle stub when you tighten the nut.

What you're trying to accomplish is to stretch it as much as you can before it permanently deforms and/or will have issues dealing with additional tensile and torsional loading.

There is not a good way to know how far is too far. Experienced people can "feel" the nut becoming tight enough and thus stretching the axle stub far enough.

Why did you do this procedure? Were your hubs making noise?

A more simple approach may be just to grease the theads and faces and then use a torque wrench set to approximately 220-250LB-FT. That will likely give you the result you're looking for. Its also less subjective to "feel". If that cures your noise, you're probably set. If not, then you can incrementally tighen more to eliminate the hub noise.

Just remember...for a torque wrench to accurately tighten a fastener...it has to be moving at a steady pace when the wrench clicks. Don't let the wrench handle stop moving during mid-swing.

desii

I ended up doing this because I was getting noise from the rear driverside. Honestly it sounds like a blown shock but I wanted to knock out an easier fix than sourcing a replacement shock. Plus I saw this TSB come up a few times during my searches and wanted to take care of it in fear of any other damage happening. I compared how much thread is sticking out from the stub/nut area with the passenger side and it looks just about the same. ( passenger side had the wheel bearing swapped a few years ago from a reputable s2k shop when I lived in Cali). I might just order a 1/2 inch socket and back out the bolt and try again to follow the original post more to the T. So far the car seems to be doing fine as far as the nut goes.

Sadly, my clucking noise is there there, I guess its time to find a replacement strut.

manystyles

Attempted this with a 1/2 Milwaukee impact wrench, didn't do sh*t! Just put in an order for their 3/4 model!

B serious

2 weeks, I give this man's poor axles.

manystyles

Hmmm what does that mean?

manystyles

To be specific, I bought the 3/4 impact to REMOVE the axle. Not install. I already have a 3/4 breaker bar and socket.

B serious

Oh. Did you un-stake it? They're not hard to remove by hand (breaker bar) or via impact.

I think the Ingersoll Rand IQV20 has the most power, BTW, since you're in the market for impacts. My 1/2" cordless makes 1100LB of "nut busting torque". IDK what that means. Basically, it removes shit.