Rear Caliper Rebuild DIY
03-13-2012, 03:41 PM
#22
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Any idea why?
GOT IT!!!
"The top caliper pin should have 3 flats ground lengthwise on it and bottom pin is round. If the round pin is in the top, it can cause jamming or dragging of the brakes."
"One of the machined flats is supposed to be directly facing the other pin, and the other machined flat is on the opposite side, if the pins are oriented correctly. I'm pretty sure it's done this way to allow compensation for thermal expansion of the caliper.
The round pin locates that point on the caliper, the flattened pin allows expansion along the axis between the pins while still locating the caliper in the other direction."
Make sense?
06-09-2012, 02:53 AM
#23
Bit of a thread revival .... but has anyone used a refurbish company to get this done? I've bought a full set of 2nd hand brakes and whilst i'm quite happy refurbishing the carriers myself and painting calipers is easy - i think i'd rather take the chance to get them stripped, cleaned, refurbished and painted properly. I've been looking at sending the lot to BiggRed and having them do all of it.
Has anyone had any dealings with them or any other suggestions of companies to use for this?
Has anyone had any dealings with them or any other suggestions of companies to use for this?
06-10-2012, 08:46 AM
#24
Fought a bit more with this today and have managed to strip everything off the rear calipers apart from the handbrake / Ebrake spring and the thing it attaches to. How do you get this off / out and how easy is it to refit it?
With regard to those banjo bolts - so much easier off the car - soak it all in WD40,hold the caliper on a hard surface ( i wore a thick gardening glove ) put an open ring spanner on it and give it several sharp taps with a dead weight hammer. This worked for all the bolts including the ones that hold what i assume is the stoneguard that covers the Ebrake cable and dust boot.
I think i'm going to cheat and let the refurb company deal with the seals / pistons etc and sandblast them clean - i'll paint them myself once they come back all clean and shiny which they are currently anything but
With regard to those banjo bolts - so much easier off the car - soak it all in WD40,hold the caliper on a hard surface ( i wore a thick gardening glove ) put an open ring spanner on it and give it several sharp taps with a dead weight hammer. This worked for all the bolts including the ones that hold what i assume is the stoneguard that covers the Ebrake cable and dust boot.
I think i'm going to cheat and let the refurb company deal with the seals / pistons etc and sandblast them clean - i'll paint them myself once they come back all clean and shiny which they are currently anything but
06-18-2012, 09:42 PM
#25
last time i was switching out my pads i noticed one of my front piston boots was torn. is this just contributing to the pitting shown on the side of the piston or is there any other issues this will cause?
03-17-2013, 03:41 AM
#28
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Sorry everybody.
Webshots turned into a payed site..... and I don't want to pay.
I did not have the time yet to upload my S2k pictures somewhere else AND go through S2ki to replace all the links.
That last bit is time consuming.
And... I'm waiting for 2 new rear pistons and a seal set to arrive.
Last week I noticed one wheel was too hot to touch so one side seized again, releasing the e-brake cable fixed it sorta.
The piston would not turn.
The chrome (or whatever it is) layer was damaged so I think that gives rust a bigger chance.
Bare metal + salty roads = rust + seized brakes.
Oh well...
Webshots turned into a payed site..... and I don't want to pay.
I did not have the time yet to upload my S2k pictures somewhere else AND go through S2ki to replace all the links.
That last bit is time consuming.
And... I'm waiting for 2 new rear pistons and a seal set to arrive.
Last week I noticed one wheel was too hot to touch so one side seized again, releasing the e-brake cable fixed it sorta.
The piston would not turn.
The chrome (or whatever it is) layer was damaged so I think that gives rust a bigger chance.
Bare metal + salty roads = rust + seized brakes.
Oh well...
03-17-2013, 03:33 PM
#29
Sorry everybody.
Webshots turned into a payed site..... and I don't want to pay.
I did not have the time yet to upload my S2k pictures somewhere else AND go through S2ki to replace all the links.
That last bit is time consuming.
And... I'm waiting for 2 new rear pistons and a seal set to arrive.
Last week I noticed one wheel was too hot to touch so one side seized again, releasing the e-brake cable fixed it sorta.
The piston would not turn.
The chrome (or whatever it is) layer was damaged so I think that gives rust a bigger chance.
Bare metal + salty roads = rust + seized brakes.
Oh well...
Webshots turned into a payed site..... and I don't want to pay.
I did not have the time yet to upload my S2k pictures somewhere else AND go through S2ki to replace all the links.
That last bit is time consuming.
And... I'm waiting for 2 new rear pistons and a seal set to arrive.
Last week I noticed one wheel was too hot to touch so one side seized again, releasing the e-brake cable fixed it sorta.
The piston would not turn.
The chrome (or whatever it is) layer was damaged so I think that gives rust a bigger chance.
Bare metal + salty roads = rust + seized brakes.
Oh well...
My hesitence is with the rears and e-brake. How much more complex are the rears than the fronts? I bought new pistons and soon, will have the rebuild kit as well. I'd like to do them all at once and do a fluid flush as well.
If you want, you can add your images to imgur.com (drag and drop) and just make that folder public. Then perhaps a mod could edit the post for you?
Good luck,
Matt
03-19-2013, 02:07 PM
#30
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The rears are a bit more work.
Not as easy to bleed, especially when you take the e-brake system out.
Looking back I think it's better to fill the caliper with brake fluid - without piston - and tap it with a hammer to get small air bubbles out.
Then let some of that fluid run out, (through the bleeder) install the piston and mount the caliper, then bleed it.
If you start dry its very hard to get the small air bubbles out by just bleeding.
I'm thinking about the pictures.
Maybe set up a homepage on my ISP server I controll, I donno.
I could zip the pictures and send them if wanted.
Not as easy to bleed, especially when you take the e-brake system out.
Looking back I think it's better to fill the caliper with brake fluid - without piston - and tap it with a hammer to get small air bubbles out.
Then let some of that fluid run out, (through the bleeder) install the piston and mount the caliper, then bleed it.
If you start dry its very hard to get the small air bubbles out by just bleeding.
I'm thinking about the pictures.
Maybe set up a homepage on my ISP server I controll, I donno.
I could zip the pictures and send them if wanted.