Excellent writeup Nobody.

 

Spec is 80 lb//ft. I usually tighten them to between 80-90 myself.

 

79.6 ft/lbs is what the manual recommends, but if I can quote Xviper: "I feel 80 is not quite enough and although 100 may still be safe, I compromise at 90. There have been reports of the odd owner here where the lugnuts loosened at 80."

Also: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...;Lug+Nuts"

90 is pretty much standard at the track whether it's Volvos or Ferraris. I've no idea why the first one went. It's possible that it was overtorqued past 90....I'd rather I made a mistake than there be some defect with Honda Lugs.

And yes, they're always tightened in a star pattern.

I'll link this thread--thanks Xviper!

 

D,
As always, great write up

 

Excellent write-up, well worth adding to the FAQ.

[QUOTE=Nobody,Jul 25 2004, 11:20 PM] I've no idea why the first one went.

 

Thanks,

Great Job!

 

After stripping / breaking lug nuts on my 1st autocross car, I started using anti-seeze on all my lugs. I haven't had a problem since, and my wheels come off quite often. I also make sure I never tighten OR loosen hot lug nuts.

I had to replace both of my rear hubs AND bearings between 35K and 40K miles. I've also replaced one hub and bearing set on another S2K. I think we just have underengineered bearings on the rear, which wind up scoring the hub when they go out.

 

The seize theory does explain the first one going--it looked ok, but when I went to remove it it just cracked right off (with very little pressure). Does Anti-Seize compound screw up measuring the torque the way oil does?

Any particular brand you guys would recommend?

 

I had this problem once 5 years ago on a 86 CRX. I tracked it twice, and when I tried removing one of the lug nuts, the lug broke. It was as if the nut was fused to the lug.

I now put a little bit of antiseize on the lugs. It does not take a whole lot, as the nut spins around the lug, the antiseize is distributed very well inside the threads, there will be a very thin layer. I am talking a very tiny dab. If you put to much, you will get a thick layer of antiseize in the grooves and then the excess will fling off from centrifigal force as the wheel spins.

Remember, just a very thin film will do. I torque my wheels to about 75-80 ft lbs for track or hard spirited driving. I check the torque frequently and never had a problem.

 

The broken studs more likely point to under-torquing than over-torquing. Over-torquing will put stress into the bolt and stretch the threads. But under-torquing will allow the stud to flex, which will rapidly increase the number of fatigue cycles until they break.

Either problem requires replaceing the studs, but it is under-torquing that leads to the more dangerous failure.