KUpton83

As title suggests is there a secret for removing the bolt that holds the rear lower toe / camber arm?

I have removed the nut and the bolt spins and is loose, just won't come out.

I can't see any reason why, the bolt shank is not totally cylindrical and has two flats opposite each other.

Can spin the bolt 180 and tried using a persuader (BFH), to assist with the bolt at various rotations but won't budge.

Cheers-

bottleboy

anybody ?

Car Analogy

I see no one replied, so I'll try, even though I have not worked on that area of tbe car before.

The outboard connection on the rear toe arm is of course a typical tie-rod joint. You need a seperator or a pickle fork to disassemble that joint.

But I think you're asking about the inboard connection. From the Honda diagram I found online, it looks like that bolt just slides out once you remove the nut AND the oblong-looking washer thing called a cam plate. This is of course the alignment adjustment for rear toe. As you discovered its keyed to the bolt with those flat spots at the end of the bolt (on the nut end).

So if after remoing both of those, nut and plate, the bolt still won't come out, then only thing I can think of is maybe the inner metal sleeve of the toe arm bushing has fused (rusted) to the bolt, and the sleeve has seperated from the rubber portion of the bushing, allowing the bolt to spin freely.

The bolt of course is supposed to spin freely, as it slides around inside the bushings inner sleeve. But if bolt siezes to sleeve, bolt can't turn (trying to turn it flexes the bushing rubber, providing much resistance). But if someone doing an alignment tried to adjust rear toe, maybe they torqued that siezed bolt with enough force that it tore the sleeve away from bushing.

That would result in exactly what you are describing, bolt spins freely, but won't come out even with BFH persuasion.

This is the exact situation that is very common with S2K compliance bushing (the caster adjustment on the cars front end). But I've never heard of it happening to any other bushing on the S except that compliance bushing up front.

When it does happen to the compliance bushing, the repair involves cutting through the bolt with a sawzall, to free the arm from the car, then new bushing (Mugen, etc) and new bolt and hardware from Honda. I would think you'd have to perform similar surgery if this is indeed what happened here.

Fokker

You should be able to smack the end of the bolt with a mallet and push it through. With the car in the air there should be minimal resistance to removing it in most cases.

S2K_Vtec

If the bolt is seized to the bushing you will have to torch it out and replace the bolt and bushing.