Crobin_1

So my S was slammed when I bought it with oem struts and skunk2 springs.
I wanted a more oem look so I replaced them with koni struts and iebach springs then got the alignment done.
Well... The tech doing my alignment freaked as my front came into the green on all marks but the rear was screwed!!! The left rear has toe and camber issues and the rear right has just camber issues. Looks awful, drives awful guess from fighting the toe. Feels like I keep trying to lead with my ass lol.
Anyway I noticed the upper arm bushings are torn and the bottom arm bushings appear to be ok. Could it just be the upper bushings? Or didn't the Honda tech doing my alignment just not know what he was doing?
Pleas help!
Thanks in advance

tbpom1003

You mean you brought your car to Honda stealership?? why did you do that? they don't know anything. especially you have aftermarket parts, they will blame you even though it is their fault.

bring it to the proper alignment shop who does do the job for performance cars with aftermarket suspension. show your car and discuss. If the problem is just bushing, you can get the bushings from mugen, asm, spoon etc

Mataleao9380

As a starting point, I'd replace the torn bushing with OEM : Part number 52393-S2A-000. Make sure you pre-load the suspension prior to torquing the bolts down. Then take it to an alignment shop.

vtec9

Doubt the bushings are the cause. There's no alignment hardware on the upper arm.

Did the alignment hardware turn freely over the full range? What was he able to get the rear camber and toe set to?

S2000s have a problem with the hardware seizing to the bushings, which removes nearly all adjustment range. Camber is adjusted on the lower A-arm where it mounts to the subframe, so check that bushing area. If that's not the issue though, being lowered, you will probably not be able to dial in less than around -2 degrees camber in the rear due to the altered suspension geometry (just a guess based on eibach spring height).

Toe is adjusted on the rear control arm where it mounts to the subframe (the single bar, with the tie rod end), so check that area as well.

Mataleao9380

I agree, the bushing is most likely not the cause but why bother getting the alignment done with a torn bushing which requires the control arm to be removed in order to fix.

Crobin_1

Thanks for all the info. At least I didn't spend much on the Honda alignment 60 bucks... They were running a special, the only reason I considered it.
Having checked the print out again but I know it was way out and was worse when I left. So I ended up messing around with the left rear (was the worse of the 2) 2 days later. I couldn't stand it anymore and figured I couldn't F it up anymore than it already was. I could actually see the toe adjuster (bar) move in and out so it's not frozen. The camber adjuster (subframe) didn't not move at all. I am going to pull it a part again tonight to see if it being frozen could be the issue

Crobin_1

Oh and i know it was off way more than -2 degrees. Think I remember it in the -10s. It was ridiculous. And if any of you are wondering, no I'm not driving it

Crobin_1

Thanks vtec9 for pointing me in the right direction. I found the main issue. The bushings may be secondary.
My main issue is bad!!! Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Turns out the idiot who slammed the car hammered down the outer guard (closest to the wheel) to the adjusting dial.
Hmmm. Spent the night scratching my head on how I'm going to correct this.

Car Analogy

You mean the tang which the cam rides against when turned during adjustment? He hammered the tang down locking cam in place and preventing adjustment?

Can't you just get a chisel in there to get it started, then pliers to bend it back to its normal 90 degree position?

Crobin_1

Yep! That's what I'm meaning! So it pushes the arm all the way out causing the severe camber.
I got it started back up with a chisel but it's slow getting it back to 90 degrees. Going at it again tonight.