Removed Valve cover and lots of rust found.
#41
My guess would be that this car saw lots of short trips followed by being parked for an extended time without an oil change. Short trips don't allow condensation to burn off. The resulting oil-water emulsion combines with the sulfur and carbon from combustion gases to form weak acids that lower the oil's TBN and corrode the steel or iron exposed to the emulsion.
This is a great example why you should take an occasional long trip to burn off the moisture in your engine and change your oil right before parking it for the winter.
Another possibility is that this engine had its thermostat stuck open for a long period but that's unlikely since the driver would likely get a CEL.
This is a great example why you should take an occasional long trip to burn off the moisture in your engine and change your oil right before parking it for the winter.
Another possibility is that this engine had its thermostat stuck open for a long period but that's unlikely since the driver would likely get a CEL.
#42
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I found a cylinder head locally for 200.00. I think that's a pretty good deal overall. I think I will just replace the intake side rockers and the cam shaft. I don't have a valve spring tool, if not I would have been doing the ap2 retainers. My main concern is I don't want something to come apart due to this rust. Even though most techs at my shop said it wouldn't. It's still in the back of my head.
#43
Yea, I know it would probably be fine - but - if it were me, I would be trying to clean it all up in the way Billman describes.
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intake retainer cylinder closest to the timing chain.
second retainer for cyl. closest to timing chain.
cyl 2
cyl 2
Ok, so I pulled my valve cover yesterday to see if the rust has gone down, and it has, the lobes look cleaner etc. I will be changing my oil every 2-3k to hopefully clean this up. While I was there, I inspected my retainers and took pictures of the intake side only. Both sides in my opinion looked good. But I would like some input from you guys to see if I missed anything or if their is any concern.
#47
Look fine to me
#49
It's cleaning up nicely, just like I told you. Keep up the short oil change intervals to keep the cleaning process going with some high-mileage oil, then switch to a good quality synthetic and you are good to go.
#50
Would it be worthwhile to get a Blackstone labs oil test on one of these intervals? I'd be curious how the rust will show up in an oil report (if at all?) -- just increased iron?...