Billman250

Rest assured you can dial out all play in the rod to zero freeplay in the LINKAGE, not the master piston.

I have been trying to convey this for years and it is just too much to grasp I guess.

The only way your clutch pedal would be slightly engaging is if you continued to turn the rod until the piston moved past the point of the fluid hole.

Feel the free play first with one finger. You will feel two distinct and separate freeplays on a non adjusted car.

The first is rod-slop, dial it out. All of it.

The second is master piston movement, leave this alone. This is the built in master 0 pressure zone.

EVEN if you were to dial out all freeplay, then further adjust the rod to a point where it moves the piston 10% into the 0 pressure zone, you would still be safe and your clutch is not engaged at all.

This is why zero clutch rod freeplay is 100% safe and the most effective. You do not need to leave any slop in the rod or play at all. You still have another 1/4" or so of master 0 pressure zone before any engagement happens.

So to answer OP, yes if will dialed out BOTH freeplays, your clutch pedal would always be under pressure or engagement. This is not what we are doing, but I'm sure that's how your guy took it.

Billman250

To add, do not adjust any of the stops or switches. Only the rod play.

johnzal

Okay let's say you adjusted enough to remove the free play. Is the pedal, supposed to feel kinda heavy and have slight vibration while the car is moving? Example, you're driving down the highway in 6th gear and you just place your foot on the pedal( with out enough force to push the pedal down) and you can feel vibrations.

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Car Analogy

Billman I get what you are saying. But either I never read that before or I wasn't grasping it before. I just never realised before that the MC had some room to move before it exerted any line pressure.

So now I understand you can and should dial out ALL play in the rod. Loosen the 12mm nut, twist the rod to lengthen it until it just starts to touch the MC piston. Tighten nut. No play at all in the linkage but you're still not engaging clutch at all at rest.

tozerman

Correct only that you are shortening the rod and NOT lengthening it.

zeroptzero

If Billman250 was adjusting mine I'd say go with zero freeplay. But if you are giving people instruction on how to do it and relying on them to get it right, I'd lean on the side of caution and recommend leaving maybe a 1mm of clearance just to be safe.

An odd thing happened to me a while back. I had a new clutch installed when my motor went south and I left some clearance on the clutch rod. After driving a couple hundred of miles the clearance disappeared and the rod was putting pressure on the mc piston and my clutch started to slip. I don't know how the clearance disappeared, or if that is normal, but it did. Since then I don't mind leaving a tiny amount just to be safe, it doesn't really affect performance or shifting with that little amount. When I first got my car I swear that it had well over an inch of freeplay and it was affecting shift quality. Just my two pennies.

AE_Racer

It is pretty simple if you look under the dash and play with the pedal.. You can feel and see the free zone before it actually moves the piston. I adjusted mine per billman's instruction when I changed my cmc and its worked great.

Billman250

Car Analogy you are right, lengthen the rod.

tozerman

Ah I see, sorry my ballsup, I have been trying to shorten mine like a twat, will sort it next time I'm in the garage

Pietak

Now here is my question.

I have removed all play in the linkage before, but this has only caused the clutch to engage uncomfortably far out. Is there another adjustment to make so the engagement is closer to the floor/firewall of the car? It feels as though all engagement occurs in the first 1" of pedal travel.