lappj

After replacing the rotors and pads on my car (MY 2000, stock), I noticed it would pull to the right under medium-to-hard braking. I got an alignment, checked the tire pressure, and did a visual check on the lines which looked normal. Problem still occurring (though not as much). I took it to Firestone and they said I had a leak in the front rubber line which was causing the air in the system and one front caliper to exert more pressure than the other.

To replace the two rubber brake lines and do a fluid flush, they quoted me $449 ($230 of which is parts). It seems a little high, particularly the parts.

Is this a reasonable price for this job? I would consider doing it myself but I'm tracking it next weekend and will not have time to finish it before then.

FlyingTR

This is the parts diagram of brake lines for an 06.->http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...%29+%28+06-%29

You can see how much each brake line set costs.

This is the brake fluid that many people use as far as I know->http://www.amazon.com/Motul-RBF600-B.../dp/B0011E2Y0I
I think you need 2 bottles for flush.(1L total)

As for the labor, that depends on the shop.

In my opinion, 450$ is a little bit more than I would pay for a job like this.

lappj

Thanks! The lines from Firestone are being quoted at more than 3x the price on the Majestic Honda website. I'm going to see if I can get a quote from a Honda dealer.

Unfortunately, neither Firestone nor the Honda dealer will use my own brake fluid (usually get ATE Type 200), so I'll probably end up doing the flush myself because I know the regular fluid will boil when I track at.

redlineracing

That's too much and it's pretty much a DIY job.I paid about $100 for my 4 SS lines.

Labor at most ( except at a stealership) should e about $100.

\rlr
Carolina

lappj

Thanks. If I replaced the rubber lines with braided steel lines in the front only (left rubber in the rear), would that throw off my braking balance?

It seems like a super simple job...maybe I'll be able to squeeze it in before work one night this week.

Habitforming

Most likely, yes. I would only do ss lines on all corners. And since that's how the kits are sold, why wouldn't you?

lappj

Most likely, yes. I would only do ss lines on all corners. And since that's how the kits are sold, why wouldn't you?
[/quote]

The kits I saw were separate for front and rears. But agreed - doing all four makes sense. Thanks for the help guys. I think I'll do it myself.

FlyingTR

In my opinion, hardest part of changing lines are not changing lines but the flush itself so while you are doing that it is only extra 5 minutes. There are plenty of DIYs you can find. Save that 450$ for more track days

SpitfireS

This is a load of nonsense.
If you have a leak in a brake line, you will loose fluid fast.
And it will show.
Fluid everywhere.
Did they replace the rear pads too?
Check if the pin on the pad facing the piston is in its slot.
New pads and rotors may take time to start working well, it all needs to wear in, and pad material needs to be embedded into the rotor.
That takes time.
A sloppy mechanic, with greasy hands, may have installed a greasy rotor.
Grease on brakes = bad.
Do not start replacing parts if you do not know what's wrong.

bendang2005

Little tip, I would pour a little brake fluid in new lines before installing. It helps the bleeding process.