Slight hesitation at low RPM
#162
2005 comptech supercharger novi 1000, q300, stock ecu, cleaned iacv and throttle body, replaced map. I have the same problem from 0 to 20 MPH or 1.5k to 3k RPM, my car starts fine, one it hits 1.5k to 3k range the car starts to hesitate and blog, then picks up and accelerates hard and finally car jolts back and forth until normal driving mode.
I have an AEM EMS v2 at home, but I don't to install it and pay to tune it to find out it will just bandaid the problem. Looking for a solution. Been at this problem for the past one month. Pretty scary at one point because the car stalled on a main road. Any suggestions?
I have an AEM EMS v2 at home, but I don't to install it and pay to tune it to find out it will just bandaid the problem. Looking for a solution. Been at this problem for the past one month. Pretty scary at one point because the car stalled on a main road. Any suggestions?
#163
I tackled this issue on an '06 dbm ap2. Threw alot of money and time at it. I could not deal with the hesitation and sold the car. You can view my posts. There are quite a few people with DBW cars and the same issue with no fix in sight. I tried everything including a remap with FLashpro and Gernby e-tune. It cleared it up a bit but was still there and much worse when it got warm outside. I replaced alot of parts and nothing fixed it. I have actually 2 different posts on the topic on multiple s2ki sites. I found just about every thread on the topic. I even listed links in one of my threads with all the people who posted on the same issue. No one even came close to figuring it out. Something to do with throttle tip in enrichment and there not being a way to adjust it in flashpro.
#164
My 2008 model (US) has joined this not so exclusive club of slight hesitation at light throttle application. I've had the car since new and it has only started doing this a couple of months ago with 67k miles on it. Besides a Berk HFC it is stock.
Reading these threads with people having similar problems, but no clear solution, have been rather discouraging. As suggested, I've tried cleaning the throttle body, replacing the map sensor and resetting the ECU. I have also replaced the TCT due to noise during hot starts. I've checked the AIT sensor and the TP sensor and they appear to be working correctly. However, the hesitation problem remains.
I read that Kikkomon finally gave up on it and sold the car
On page 12 of this thread Krenath wrote that he solved it by replacing the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor. Krenath, is that fix still working? Has anyone else had any luck with that option?
Anyone suggestions on what to check before I go to the local Honda shop?
Reading these threads with people having similar problems, but no clear solution, have been rather discouraging. As suggested, I've tried cleaning the throttle body, replacing the map sensor and resetting the ECU. I have also replaced the TCT due to noise during hot starts. I've checked the AIT sensor and the TP sensor and they appear to be working correctly. However, the hesitation problem remains.
I read that Kikkomon finally gave up on it and sold the car
On page 12 of this thread Krenath wrote that he solved it by replacing the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor. Krenath, is that fix still working? Has anyone else had any luck with that option?
Anyone suggestions on what to check before I go to the local Honda shop?
#165
New APP sensor - Problem solved!
To follow up on the hesitation problem on my 2008, I confirmed the hint from Krenath in post #118 indicating that the issue is not occurring when using cruise control. Graphs of the sensor values when driving is much smoother when on cruise control than when using the throttle pedal. This did direct my attention to parts that are not in use when on cruise control, namely the Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) sensor (which is also what Krenath ended up replacing). However, I wanted to make sure that this was the issue before replacing the part, so I did some additional attempts to diagnose the part.
Graphing values from the two potentiometers inside the APP sensor did not show any dead spots when manually moving the actuator (Accelerator Pedal Position D and E in the OBD-II scan tool I use).
Manual movement of APP sensor.
Using a multimeter to backprobe the signal wires showed one going from 0.5V (3rd wire from top) and up and the other from 0.25V (4th wire from top) and up. I could not find any dead spots when manually moving the actuator.
I took some screen captures from the OBD-II scan tool on my phone when the issue happened and there are some small dips shown in the graph from the APP Sensors (yellow and blue) when the hesitation or stuttering could be felt and the graphg is a lot more jagged than when using cruise control (graphs cover a 12 second windows).
Manual Control - Many dips on light throttle. /// Manual Control - Dip on light throttle.
Cruise Control - Decelerate. /// Cruise Control - Accelerate.
Even though I could not measure a clear defect, these observations did indicate a problem with the APP sensor, so I ended up ordering a replacement (part number 37971-PZX-003 at USD $155 with shipping). It was an easy install requiring just a 10m socket with an extension and a 12mm wrench for the throttle cable attachment and some needle nose pliers to get a wire attachment released. The replacement can probably be done in 10 minutes if in a hurry.
Original APP Sensor - Cover on. /// Original APP Sensor - Cover off. /// New APP Sensor - Cover off.
The hesitation problem is now completely gone and the graphs from OBD-II scan tool are much smoother as show from these graphs with the new APP sensor.
Manual Control - New APP sensor - Accel. /// Manual Control - New APP sensor - Decel.
Problem solved!
At least the solution was the same for me and Krenath (Thanks!) and I hope some of the observation about the APP sensor behavior can help other people diagnose this issue faster.
Graphing values from the two potentiometers inside the APP sensor did not show any dead spots when manually moving the actuator (Accelerator Pedal Position D and E in the OBD-II scan tool I use).
Manual movement of APP sensor.
Using a multimeter to backprobe the signal wires showed one going from 0.5V (3rd wire from top) and up and the other from 0.25V (4th wire from top) and up. I could not find any dead spots when manually moving the actuator.
I took some screen captures from the OBD-II scan tool on my phone when the issue happened and there are some small dips shown in the graph from the APP Sensors (yellow and blue) when the hesitation or stuttering could be felt and the graphg is a lot more jagged than when using cruise control (graphs cover a 12 second windows).
Manual Control - Many dips on light throttle. /// Manual Control - Dip on light throttle.
Cruise Control - Decelerate. /// Cruise Control - Accelerate.
Even though I could not measure a clear defect, these observations did indicate a problem with the APP sensor, so I ended up ordering a replacement (part number 37971-PZX-003 at USD $155 with shipping). It was an easy install requiring just a 10m socket with an extension and a 12mm wrench for the throttle cable attachment and some needle nose pliers to get a wire attachment released. The replacement can probably be done in 10 minutes if in a hurry.
Original APP Sensor - Cover on. /// Original APP Sensor - Cover off. /// New APP Sensor - Cover off.
The hesitation problem is now completely gone and the graphs from OBD-II scan tool are much smoother as show from these graphs with the new APP sensor.
Manual Control - New APP sensor - Accel. /// Manual Control - New APP sensor - Decel.
Problem solved!
At least the solution was the same for me and Krenath (Thanks!) and I hope some of the observation about the APP sensor behavior can help other people diagnose this issue faster.
The following users liked this post:
Jarvis (09-07-2018)
#166
Bad APP sensor.
My car is 2007 model year. After 11 years it started having following issues
1) In 2nd and 3rd gears, between 3000 to 4000 RPM the car would jerk for a second before accelerating.
2) The car could continuously accelerate without any jerkiness. But if I try to drive it at 3000-4000RPM for a while because of traffic, and accelerate
then it would jerk before picking up the speed.
I too had the APP sensor replaced and that solved the problem! In addition to solving the problem, the throttle
response improved at all RPM. I want to thank everyone who contributed to this thread. Information here,
especially the ones posted by SWOOTECH were very helpful. Guys who replaced the item did a "re-learn"
of ECU using a Honda scan tool. It took several minutes to do that. I was told that "re-learning" the ECU is necessary after
replacing APP sensor, MAP sensor or even after cleaning the throttle body.
In 4th, 5th and 6th the issue was not noticeable. Probably there was enough momentum at those RPM to "cover" up lapses in power delivery. In the first gear,
because of high gear ratio, perhaps there wasn't enough load on the engine(?) Didn't try to do 4000 RPM in the reverse so I don't know if the issue was there
Gaja
My car is 2007 model year. After 11 years it started having following issues
1) In 2nd and 3rd gears, between 3000 to 4000 RPM the car would jerk for a second before accelerating.
2) The car could continuously accelerate without any jerkiness. But if I try to drive it at 3000-4000RPM for a while because of traffic, and accelerate
then it would jerk before picking up the speed.
I too had the APP sensor replaced and that solved the problem! In addition to solving the problem, the throttle
response improved at all RPM. I want to thank everyone who contributed to this thread. Information here,
especially the ones posted by SWOOTECH were very helpful. Guys who replaced the item did a "re-learn"
of ECU using a Honda scan tool. It took several minutes to do that. I was told that "re-learning" the ECU is necessary after
replacing APP sensor, MAP sensor or even after cleaning the throttle body.
In 4th, 5th and 6th the issue was not noticeable. Probably there was enough momentum at those RPM to "cover" up lapses in power delivery. In the first gear,
because of high gear ratio, perhaps there wasn't enough load on the engine(?) Didn't try to do 4000 RPM in the reverse so I don't know if the issue was there
Gaja
The following users liked this post:
Jarvis (09-07-2018)
#167
I think MY2009 has the same issue - hesitation/stutter at low rpm and part throttle.
I logged the throttle signal with the FlashPro and it showed this strange fluctuation when it happend.
Looks like I'm going to replace the APP sensor too.
I logged the throttle signal with the FlashPro and it showed this strange fluctuation when it happend.
Looks like I'm going to replace the APP sensor too.
#168
Bad APP sensor.
My car is 2007 model year. After 11 years it started having following issues
1) In 2nd and 3rd gears, between 3000 to 4000 RPM the car would jerk for a second before accelerating.
2) The car could continuously accelerate without any jerkiness. But if I try to drive it at 3000-4000RPM for a while because of traffic, and accelerate
then it would jerk before picking up the speed.
I too had the APP sensor replaced and that solved the problem! In addition to solving the problem, the throttle
response improved at all RPM. I want to thank everyone who contributed to this thread. Information here,
especially the ones posted by SWOOTECH were very helpful. Guys who replaced the item did a "re-learn"
of ECU using a Honda scan tool. It took several minutes to do that. I was told that "re-learning" the ECU is necessary after
replacing APP sensor, MAP sensor or even after cleaning the throttle body.
In 4th, 5th and 6th the issue was not noticeable. Probably there was enough momentum at those RPM to "cover" up lapses in power delivery. In the first gear,
because of high gear ratio, perhaps there wasn't enough load on the engine(?) Didn't try to do 4000 RPM in the reverse so I don't know if the issue was there
Gaja
My car is 2007 model year. After 11 years it started having following issues
1) In 2nd and 3rd gears, between 3000 to 4000 RPM the car would jerk for a second before accelerating.
2) The car could continuously accelerate without any jerkiness. But if I try to drive it at 3000-4000RPM for a while because of traffic, and accelerate
then it would jerk before picking up the speed.
I too had the APP sensor replaced and that solved the problem! In addition to solving the problem, the throttle
response improved at all RPM. I want to thank everyone who contributed to this thread. Information here,
especially the ones posted by SWOOTECH were very helpful. Guys who replaced the item did a "re-learn"
of ECU using a Honda scan tool. It took several minutes to do that. I was told that "re-learning" the ECU is necessary after
replacing APP sensor, MAP sensor or even after cleaning the throttle body.
In 4th, 5th and 6th the issue was not noticeable. Probably there was enough momentum at those RPM to "cover" up lapses in power delivery. In the first gear,
because of high gear ratio, perhaps there wasn't enough load on the engine(?) Didn't try to do 4000 RPM in the reverse so I don't know if the issue was there
Gaja
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