Sticky clutch while shifting; now stuck to floor
08-05-2018, 11:19 AM
#1
Sticky clutch while shifting; now stuck to floor
1st time posting so I hope I'm in the right thread.
01 ap1
I believe it is a stage 3 clutch, was in the car when I bought it so not sure what brand
was noticing the clutch pedal was "sticky" during shifts while driving.
finally the clutch pedal stuck to the floor as I was driving.
after pulling over i lifted it back up and now the pedal is rock hard.
I've seen some similar threads in here with what seems to be the t/o bearing ? Or possible fork slippage/break?
any info would be appreciated guys. Thanks
01 ap1
I believe it is a stage 3 clutch, was in the car when I bought it so not sure what brand
was noticing the clutch pedal was "sticky" during shifts while driving.
finally the clutch pedal stuck to the floor as I was driving.
after pulling over i lifted it back up and now the pedal is rock hard.
I've seen some similar threads in here with what seems to be the t/o bearing ? Or possible fork slippage/break?
any info would be appreciated guys. Thanks
08-05-2018, 12:38 PM
#2
Spring...
I thought I was nuts but I actually did find a spring under my car while parked about a week back. I thought there was no way that it came out of my car but it was exactly the size of the clutch spring. I guess I'm gonna need a clutch .....
08-05-2018, 06:51 PM
#5
08-05-2018, 07:28 PM
#6
I don't know how it could be one of the clutch disc springs unless you have an aftermarket oil pan, as the flywheel and housing is enclosed, unless you are missing the fork/slave cylinder boot. The springs are probably in there..just wedged in the pressure plate.
As far as going in gear with the car off.. if you can't depress the clutch then I wouldn't expect it to be able to go into gear, except maybe the last gear it was in.
Anyway if you are doing this... As other person mentioned, OEM Clutch and bearing. Make sure you use the original Nachi bearing, not the NSK. Use UREA Grease only, and inspect the bearing shaft collar to see if it needs replacement.
As far as going in gear with the car off.. if you can't depress the clutch then I wouldn't expect it to be able to go into gear, except maybe the last gear it was in.
Anyway if you are doing this... As other person mentioned, OEM Clutch and bearing. Make sure you use the original Nachi bearing, not the NSK. Use UREA Grease only, and inspect the bearing shaft collar to see if it needs replacement.
Anyone know who has oe clutches for the best price or are they pretty much the same price point
08-05-2018, 08:51 PM
#7
ah ok . I actually do have a friend there at the dealer but I guess he cant help right now which sucks.
I wish I could have Honda do the work but I may have to settle for a local shop and just bring the high temp grease myself I guess.
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08-06-2018, 06:38 AM
#8
I strongly suggest diy, or a shop that has worked on S2000 before.
The dealers are more likely to cause damage than fix anything.
A local shop is not likely to listen when you tell them what to grease how anything S specific they should do. You'll end up with clutch issues when things aren't lubed properly. It will seem ok at first, and issues will show up down the road, making it more difficult to successfully make a case the shop work was faulty.
Shops seem to have an attitude of 'we've done 100's of clutch jobs, we know wjat we're doing'. And will do it the way that has worked fine on all other cars. The problem is that won't be a formula for success with this car.
So either diy, or find a shop that knows this car.
The dealers are more likely to cause damage than fix anything.
A local shop is not likely to listen when you tell them what to grease how anything S specific they should do. You'll end up with clutch issues when things aren't lubed properly. It will seem ok at first, and issues will show up down the road, making it more difficult to successfully make a case the shop work was faulty.
Shops seem to have an attitude of 'we've done 100's of clutch jobs, we know wjat we're doing'. And will do it the way that has worked fine on all other cars. The problem is that won't be a formula for success with this car.
So either diy, or find a shop that knows this car.
08-07-2018, 10:28 PM
#9
Slave cylinder possibly ?!?!?!??
The more research I do especially with the clutch hmmm pedal just going all the way down, and also the fact that my clutch has been really great; grabs great no slips no issues, leads me in the direction of the slave cylinder. Either it needing to be replaced and or greasing the fork.
All the symptoms from being slightly sticky after its depressed all the way to finally getting stuck to the floor at a higher rev gear change let's me think that.
I have it at a shop now but they seem to be retarded and I am holding off on having them pull the tranny as they say they cant tell if the slave is bad. I'm gonna ask them to grease the fork and change the slave and check the master for leakage and see what happens before I go thru spending all the money on a new clutch and of course shop charge.
wish I was better with cars but I dont want to make this my first solo tranny pull.
All the symptoms from being slightly sticky after its depressed all the way to finally getting stuck to the floor at a higher rev gear change let's me think that.
I have it at a shop now but they seem to be retarded and I am holding off on having them pull the tranny as they say they cant tell if the slave is bad. I'm gonna ask them to grease the fork and change the slave and check the master for leakage and see what happens before I go thru spending all the money on a new clutch and of course shop charge.
wish I was better with cars but I dont want to make this my first solo tranny pull.
08-15-2018, 08:02 PM
#10
T/o bearing
So from what I was told by the trans. Shop is that it ended up being the t/o bearing. I have had them go out before but the symptoms were never like what i described at the top of the post so its def new to me. Shop said clutch was about 25 % life left which when they showed me looked more like 50% but sure what the hell let's throw a clutch and new bearings while we are in there.
The one thing that bothered me was I was told it would be ready today and when I finally called at the end of the day I was told " it's about done, but after we do a job like this we like to let it sit for about 6 hours" WTF is that shit. I'm not a mechanical by any means but I've been working on my own hondas for 17 years and I have never heard something like that.
just wondering if anyone has heard some dumb shit like that before?
perhaps and hopefully they just didnt finish in time and needed a little more time to finish the car, instead of probably taking my car out and beating the shit out of it.
anyways thought I'd update with the "fix" and hope all is well when I actually get it back Tom.
ended up purchasing the CM stg 3 high rev kit so well see how it feels. Should be mu h better than the 6 puck that was in there which I hated.
The one thing that bothered me was I was told it would be ready today and when I finally called at the end of the day I was told " it's about done, but after we do a job like this we like to let it sit for about 6 hours" WTF is that shit. I'm not a mechanical by any means but I've been working on my own hondas for 17 years and I have never heard something like that.
just wondering if anyone has heard some dumb shit like that before?
perhaps and hopefully they just didnt finish in time and needed a little more time to finish the car, instead of probably taking my car out and beating the shit out of it.
anyways thought I'd update with the "fix" and hope all is well when I actually get it back Tom.
ended up purchasing the CM stg 3 high rev kit so well see how it feels. Should be mu h better than the 6 puck that was in there which I hated.