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Is there something wrong with my clutch?

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Is there something wrong with my clutch?

 
Old 07-22-2016, 10:54 AM
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Default Is there something wrong with my clutch?

When I push my clutch pedal down the first few mm is very light, then I feel a normal resistance until around 80% from fully depressed.
At that point there is some kind of added resistance, like it's getting a bit stuck and once past this point it feels the same as before again.
If I let the pedal go back half way and then push it down again there is no added resistance.
But if I let it all the way up the resistance is back again if I press the clutch down.

Here is a video that might show a bit better what I'm trying to explain
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uI39RZIgmBc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uI39RZIgmBc

Is this normal or is there anyone that have an idea what could be causing this?
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Old 07-22-2016, 11:27 AM
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Follow this tutorial:
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/370...-clutch-pedal/

Also change your brake fluid + bleed it, then report back.
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Old 07-22-2016, 11:47 AM
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Sorry should have mentioned that the fluid is pretty much new and that the rod has been previously polished.
Maybe could have done a bit better job on the polish but I don't think that's the problem?
Made another video showing the slave operating

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPcHxpLbghY
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Old 07-22-2016, 02:56 PM
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You probably have some build up or barreling of the release bearing guide. It is the sleeve that the release (throw out) bearing slides back and forth on.

Has the clutch been replaced?

When was the last time the guide was replaced? Or how many miles does it have on it?

You can test this theory by:
-remove the slave cylinder.
-look thru the hole with a flashlight to locate the sleeve.
-spray some white lithium grease on the guide sleeve.
-put the slave cylinder back on. Try the pedal.

At the point of this test, don't clean or grease the slave cylinder pivot ball or do anything else. Isolate the issue.

If the clutch is smoother after you sprayed the guide with grease...you found the issue.

The guide is a $30 part that should be replaced anytime you do a clutch. It should be lubed with Honda HT urea grease (specifically).

If there was no change after greasing the guide, you can always try cleaning and greasing the slave cylinder pivot ball as an independent test at another time.
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Old 07-22-2016, 03:29 PM
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Thanks, that sounds like a credible explanation and a good test that I will try.
Car has supposedly only done ~37k miles so far and as far as I know clutch has never been touched.
When inspecting things under the tranny today I noticed lots of excessive rtv that definitely didn't look like a factory seal so I'm suspecting someone has been removing the transmission before and maybe didn't do a very good job

I've felt this clutch resistance for a long time but I think it's started to feel worse recently.
Or maybe it's because I've just adjusted the clutch pedal and noticing things more now.
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Old 07-23-2016, 03:08 PM
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Well I had a look inside the small peeking hole and it wasn't very pretty, seemed to be bone dry in there.
Here is a picture from the outside


And here is a video on the inside, sorry for the bad quality (cheap chinese endoscope)

I managed to use a bent piece of wire and smear some super urea grease on the fork and also the bearing guide.
Now after lots of pushing on the clutch pedal it seems to be a major improvement, big thanks for the suggestion B serious.
Is it likely that this could have caused grinding gears as well?
I had the grinding mostly shifting from first to second but also a recent and big one from third to forth.


One more thing, this is a picture on the passenger side of the gearbox. Notice big gunks of RTV around some of the bolts.
Is this likely to be from the factory?
Same type of RTV seems to be used between the housing parts of the gearbox.

Last edited by flanders; 06-23-2017 at 11:10 AM.
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Old 07-23-2016, 04:38 PM
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My car has the same rtv. I think its factory.

If the release bearing guide and fork are that dry, chances are the clutch splines are too. That would definitely cause grinds as the friction disk will drag.

Only real solution is to remove trans to grease it, at which point you ought to do a new clutch. So live with it until you are willing to do a clutch job, and diy or you will have the same issue all over again. For some reason, shops almost never apply the grease, but will swear to you they did.

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Old 07-24-2016, 02:36 AM
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Alright thanks for the feedback, I'll see how it behaves and start the mental preparations for a transmission drop.
Maybe also start looking for good deals on clutch and flywheel (I want to change that anyways) packages.
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Old 07-24-2016, 11:01 AM
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It's a stretch, but what type of grease did you use on the slave cylinder rod? The first time I did mine I used some general purpose grease and it worked...for a very short period of time. Redid it with Honda urea grease and no issues since.
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Old 07-24-2016, 11:19 AM
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I've imported a lifetime supply of Honda super hi temp urea grease (can't get this here in Europe) and that's what I used on the rod as well.
Took a test drive today and I couldn't believe how soft the clutch felt, it's smooth as butter now
Just hope it lasts and the grindings stays away.
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